Tropical and Cold Hardy Banana Plants

Tropical and Cold Hardy Banana Plants

Banana plants are one of the most versatile plants to use in the landscape or in containers. The banana plant can be fruiting or ornamental in nature, and both will produce an inflorescence (flower), but only the fruiting varieties produce edible bananas.

Banana Bloom and Fruit

Banana plants enhance a tropical allure to your landscape with their lush green foliage with leaves measuring 2 feet wide x 6 feet long. Bananas have a fast growth rate, and some varieties will produce fruit within 9 months after planting. 

Can you imagine harvesting bananas growing in your yard or container? Impossible you think. It is possible to plant, grow, and harvest bananas from your backyard or container with the newer cultivars that are extremely cold-hardy and have high wind resistance. Some of the cultivars are hardy to USDA zone 7. For the gardener that resides outside of USDA zone 7 one can grow the banana plant in a container; and bring the plant in just before first frost in your area. For winter protection in the garden, heavily mulch the area where the banana is planted.

Let’s talk about the wonderful benefits of growing fruit in the garden or in containers. Home-grown bananas have a richer, fuller, and better taste than store bought since you pick them yourself. Home-grown bananas are easy and inexpensive to grow as well. Growing bananas has a lot of appeal: it can involve the entire family from the little ones to the teens. As well as being an educational tool, the time the family spends in the garden is quality time spent together and can give one a sense of pride. For gardener’s who live in a condo, apartment, or townhome bananas can be grown in a container. There are a few key elements to consider before growing or planting your bananas: Location or container(s), soil amendments or potting soil, planting, fertilizer, and insecticide.

Choosing a Location: Choose an area that gets 5 - 6 hours of full sun; and if, you have an area that receives more than 6 hours of sunlight that’s all right, too.

Choosing a Container(s): Pick a container that is 14 inches or larger, and I would like to suggest when growing bananas to put one plant per container.

Choosing a Soil Amendment or Potting Soil: When choosing a soil amendment or potting soil there are several commercial soils available, and choosing one is a matter of your gardening preferences, some of the choices are inorganic verses organic, with moisture control or without moisture control, with timed-release fertilizer or without fertilizer. Some soils are especially formulated for fruit and vegetables and can be used as a potting soil in containers or a soil amendment to the planting area. Bananas especially like lots of compost either applied on top of the soil or mixed in with soil amendments and soil from the original planting hole when planting in the garden. 

Planting: All bananas are slightly acid-loving plants and require an acid-loving soil. When planting use a soil recommended for azaleas and camellias, or fruit and vegetables. Dig the hole twice as wide as the root ball and deep. Use a 50 – 50 mix of original soil from the planting hole and the azalea/camellia soil, or fruit and vegetable soil. Add this mixture to the planting hole. The root ball of the banana needs to be one (1) inch above the soil line. Fill the planting hole with the soil mixture. Water in well. After watering add a root stimulator or Super Thrive. These are products that you mix with water and help reduce transplant shock and also help stimulate the roots. Use once a week for the first month and then after, once a month for six months. Did you know that leftover coffee or tea grounds help increase the acidity level of your soil? Instead of throwing away your leftover coffee or tea grounds away your bananas will benefit from sprinkling the grounds around your bananas. Let the grounds dry in a container and one can add the grounds daily or weekly. Cover with a layer of mulch one to three inches thick. Spacing: 8 to 10 apart.

Choosing a Fertilizer: Fertilizers are the vitamins or the essential elements that a plant needs to grow and stay healthy. The soil, atmosphere, and water usually provide the plant with these essential nutrients, but there are times when the soil is generally nutrient deficient and in this case a fertilizer is essential. There are sixteen essential elements to plant nutrition. These elements are separated into two categories, macronutrients and micronutrients. The macronutrients are oxygen [O], carbon [C], hydrogen [H], nitrogen [N], phosphorus [P], potassium [K], Calcium [Ca], magnesium [Mg], sulfur [S] and are required by the plant in large amounts. Oxygen, carbon and hydrogen are provided to the plant by the atmosphere and water. Required by the plant in small amounts are the micronutrients, which are: iron [Fe], manganese [Mn], zinc [Zn], baron [B], copper [Cu], molybdenum [Mo], and chlorine [Cl]. These elements are the building blocks to plant nutrition and health. Bananas are heavy feeders and require sufficient amounts of water. Keep the planted area free from grass 2 – 5 feet away from the trunk. Fertilize every month with a fertilizer recommended for Citrus, Avocado, and Mango, a 10-6-4, a 6-4-4, an 8-10-8, or a 6-2-12. Apply at a rate of 1 ½ pounds per month up to 5 pounds per plant. Young plants apply ½ pound per month. Apply the fertilizer 4 feet away from the trunk. These recommendations are bananas planted in the ground. For containers or newly potted containers apply the recommended rate directly on top of the soil and water in well. 

Choosing an Insecticide: When choosing an insecticide there are several available at your local garden center and choosing one is a matter of your gardening preferences, and while I was growing bananas, I had an IPM (Integrated Pest Management) approach method. I would only use Safer Soaps or Horticultural Oils on all the bananas that I grew, and realistically I hardly had to spray the bananas at all. I was constantly watching for any insect or worm that would start eating my prize bananas, and when I did see one I would simply dispose of the insect. Realistically, banana plants are usually pest-free. When growing the plants in a container or inside is when one should keep a lookout for insects, especially spider mites.

Watering: Of all the ingredients that have been mentioned for banana growing or banana container gardening success, water, is the most important to a successful banana grower, whether in the garden or in containers. The soil for your bananas will need to be consistently moist at all times, but not soggy wet. Banana plants will not tolerate flooding. The water needs to drain within 24-48 hours after flooding has occurred. The water source should be city water or treated water. This is one of the reasons of previous years Salmonella outbreaks on produce; the produce that were recalled received Salmonella during either the growing process or the production process. To date, I have not heard of any bananas being recalled. Due to all the current recalls of produce, more gardeners are starting to grow their own fruits this year versus previous years due to the recent outbreaks in store-bought produce. Just another reason to start growing your own fruits, you supply the water, you supply the insecticide, and you know exactly what ingredients went into your fruits. For states that are currently under water restrictions, you can water your food crops, personal food garden, or personal container garden without penalty. Wash all fruits before eating or cooking, whether Home Grown or Store Bought.

Bananas are clumping and send out underground rhizomes; in no time at all you will have a whole grove of bananas. When growing bananas, it is recommended to keep 3 to 6 suckers (plants) at various heights. Any more than 6 banana suckers should be removed by cutting the sucker down to the soil line. When a banana blooms, it is the flower that forms the fruit. Once the banana produces a flower and fruits that stalk will die. When harvesting bananas, cut the banana bunch off the tree, and then cut the entire banana stalk to the ground. Then, let a new sucker replace the one that was just cut down. One can tell when the bananas are ready to be harvested when the fruits start to turn yellow in color. If, the bananas start to split before harvesting has occurred increase the water times or the amount of water received by the plant. Listed below are a few cultivars that are excellent choices for home gardeners.

Brazilian Dwarf Banana – Height 6 – 9 feet. Large leaves, good provider of shade, and good wind resistance. Bananas can be eaten fresh or served in other delicious treats. Zones: 7, 8, 9, 10, 11.

Carolina King Banana – Height 5 – 6 feet. Green-yellow color, delicious fruit. Can be grown in a container. Easy to grow to the fruiting stage, extremely cold hardy. Zones: 7, 8, 9, 10.

Cavendish Banana – Height 15 – 17 feet. Primary variety sold in U.S. grocery stores. Full-sized, high-quality fruit. Zones: 7, 8, 9, 10.

Dwarf Cavendish Banana – Height 6 – 7 feet. Delicious fruit, this is one of the varieties you buy at the grocery store. Medium size fruit, sweet and tasty. Height 7 feet. Zones: 8, 9, 10, 11.

Golden Rhino Horn Banana – Height 17 to 20 feet. Most cold-hardy, green-yellow fruit. The fruit is equal or sweeter than most grocery store bananas. Zones: 7, 8, 9, 10.

Grand Nain Banana – Height 6 to 8 feet. Good wind resistance. Fruits at 6 feet, popular variety for desserts and other banana dishes. Fruit measures 11 to 12 inches long and very popular and used by world class chefs. This is the variety typically associated with the Chiquita brand. Zones: 8, 9, 10.

Ice Cream Banana – Height to 15 feet. The skin of the fruit is silvery-blue sheen. Considered the best tasting fruit with a hint of vanilla ice cream. Zones: 8, 9, 10.

Jamaican Red Dwarf Banana – Height 6 to 8 feet. High wind resistance. Fruit superior quality, moist, sweet, with custard-like texture. Zones: 8, 9, 10, 11.

Lady Finger Banana – Height 12-16 feet. Excellent producer of sweet tasting and fruit is shaped like that of a cigar. Zones: 8, 9, 10.

Misi Luki Banana – Height 10 to 12 feet. Misi Luki is an improvement over Lady Finger. This variety is recommended to the home gardener for best tasting fruit, very disease resistant and fruit that is 4 inches long. Zones: 8, 9, 10.

Mysore Banana – Height 15 to 16 feet. Slightly acid flavor offsets the sweetness. High wind resistance. Commercially grown in Asia. Zones: 8, 9, 10, 11.

Nam Wah Banana – Salt tolerant and wind resistant. Fast grower which can reach a height of 20 feet in 6 months. Zones: 8, 9, 10, 11.

Pineapple Banana – Height 6-7 feet. Derivative of RajaPuri, but slightly shorter. Tangier fruit that is reminiscent of pineapple. Zones: 8, 9, 10.

Pisang Ceylon Banana – Height 10-15 feet. Foliage maroon with black markings. Very cold-hardy, high quality sweet fruit. This variety is an improvement of the Mysore. Zones: 7, 8, 9, 10.

Rajapuri Banana – Height 10-12 feet. Very cold-hardy, salt tolerant, and high wind resistance. Very sweet fruit that compares to grocery store bananas. Excellent choice for landscaping. Zones: 7, 8, 9, 10, 11.

Texas Star Banana – Height 6-8 feet. Superb cold hardiness. Tasty, medium size fruit, sweet in flavor. Zones: 7, 8, 9, 10, 11.

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©Cheryl Ann Meola 2015.

Fruits, Nuts, and Berries For The South 2015

Fruits, Nuts, and Berries For The South

Most fruit trees require pollination and chilling temperatures from November to mid-February to break dormancy in the spring. Pollination is the process of pollen from one flower being transferred to another flower, required by certain plants and trees. The process of pollination can be by insects, animals, wind, or humans.  Most fruit trees need pollination for good fruit set, which occurs when a recommended fruit tree, (pollinator) is planted nearby. A plant or tree starts to go dormant when exposed to chilling temperatures. Chilling temperatures for a plant or tree are when night time temperatures drop to 45°F or below. Chill hours can be described as the number of hours the plant or tree receives temperatures at or below 45°F. Chill hours are required by the plant or tree to trigger the development of leaf and flower buds. Listed below are a few cultivars and pollinators for southern fruit trees, nuts trees, and berry plants. 

Apples – All apples require chilling hours and a pollinator depending on the variety. Fertilization should not begin for at least 3 months after planting. A root stimulator or Super Thrive can be used at planting time. These products help the plant or tree to establish new roots. Recommended fertilizers for apple trees is an 8-8-8, or a 12-12-12 that is applied in the spring. Spread the recommended amount of fertilizer uniformly from the drip line to the trunk of the tree. Avoid fertilizing after June, new growth is more susceptible to winter damage. Recommended fertilizer rates for Apple trees is: 1^st year – ½ pound per plant and apply at bud swell (February – early March). After 1^st year 1 pound per plant per year of growth up to a maximum of 10 pounds per plant. For example: your tree is 12 years old, you would apply 10 pounds per plant. Keep the planted area free from grass 2-5-feet away from the trunk. Spacing: 20 – 25 feet apart. Listed below are a few cultivars and pollinators for apple trees. 

Anna - requires a pollinator with another cultivar. Dorsett Golden is a good pollinator for the Anna cultivar. Chilling Hours: 200 – 300. Anna fruit is crisp with excellent flavor, which ripens late June. Height and Width: 15’ H x 15’ W.

Dorsett Golden - requires a pollinator with another cultivar. The Anna cultivar is a good pollinator for Dorsett Golden. Chilling Hours: 200 - 300. Dorsett Golden is a heavy producer of sweet, crisp, high quality golden fruit, which ripens late June. Height and Width: 15’ H x 15’ W.

Ein Shemer – self-pollinating and very productive, but fruit production increases with another apple tree planted nearby. Ein Shemer bears crisp, tart apples with a good quality flesh. Fruit ripens early June. One can use Anna or Dorsett Golden as a pollinator. Chilling Hours: 200 – 350. Height and Width: 15’ H x 15’ W.

Fuji – requires a pollinator and tolerates summer heat. Yellow Delicious is good for pollination. Fuji fruit is high quality and ripens late September to October. Chilling Hours: 100 - 400 hours. Height and Width: 15’ H x 15’ W.

Gala – self-pollinating and very productive, but fruit production increases with another apple tree planted nearby and tolerates summer heat. Yellow Delicious, Red Delicious or Gala can be used as a pollinator. Gala fruit ripens late August and is a great tasting dessert apple. Chilling Hours: 500 - 550. Height and Width: 10 – 15’ H x 10 – 15’ W.

Granny Smith – self-pollinating and very productive, but fruit production increases with another apple tree planted nearby and tolerates summer heat. Red Delicious or Golden Delicious can be used as a pollinator. Granny Smith fruit is excellent quality with a tart-sweet taste, good all-purpose apple. Ripens in early fall. Chilling Hours – 500 – 600. Height and Width: 15 - 20’ H x 15 - 20’ W.

McIntosh - self-pollinating and very productive, but fruit production increases with another apple tree planted nearby. To increase fruit production you can use McIntosh, Granny Smith, or Yellow Delicious. McIntosh apples are juicy with a slightly tart, sweet flavor. Ripens early September. Chilling hours – 900. Height and Width: 20 - 30’ H x 15’ - 20’ W. 

Red Delicious – requires a pollinator use Golden Delicious or a Crabapple. Red Delicious has sweet fruit good for eating fresh, cooking, or cider. Ripens late August. Chilling Hours: 900. Height and Width: 20’ H x 15 – 20’ W.

Yellow Delicious – self-pollinating and one of the best pollinators. Yellow Delicious has a mild, sweet flavor and the fruit ripens in late summer. Chilling Hours: 600 – 700. Height and Width: 20’ H x 15 – 20’ W.

Avocado – Avocados are self-pollinating, but fruit production increases with another Avocado tree planted nearby. Avocado trees should be planted in a well-drained area. Keep the planted area free from grass 2 – 5 feet away from the trunk. Fertilize newly planted trees every 2 months for the first year starting when new growth appears after planting. The second year after planting fertilize 3 to 4 times a year ending in October. Use a fertilizer recommended for Citrus, Avocado, and Mango or a 10-6-4 or a 6-4-4. The Haas cultivar is cold hardy and the fruit is an excellent choice for salads and guacamole. The fruit matures on the tree.

Bananas – are heavy feeders and require sufficient amounts of water. Keep the planted area free from grass 2 – 5 feet away from the trunk. Fertilize every month with a fertilizer recommended for Citrus, Avocado, and Mango, or a 10-6-4, or a 6-4-4. Bananas are clumping by nature and keep at least 5 to 6 mature banana stalks. Any new growth or suckers should be removed by cutting down to the soil line. When a banana blooms, it is the flower that forms the fruit. Once the banana produces a flower and fruits that stalk will die. When harvesting bananas, cut the banana bunch off the tree, and then cut the entire banana stalk to the ground. Then, let a new sucker replace the one that was just cut down. One can tell when the bananas are ready to be harvested when the fruits start to turn yellow in color. If, the bananas start to split before harvesting has occurred increase the water times or the amount of water received by the plant. 

Blackberry – All blackberries are self-pollinating, will tolerate poor soil, and will produce fruit after the second year of planting. Apply 8-8-8 or 12-12-12 fertilizer blend in early spring (February-early March) at bud swell and in mid-July apply ammonium nitrate ½ pound per plant will increase vigor and fruit set. Apply ½ pound per plant the 1^gr year and after the 1 ^F year apply 8 ounces per plant. The canes produce fruit only once on two year old wood and should be removed and cut down to the ground after harvesting the fruit. Spacing: 2’ – 6’ apart. Listed below are a few cultivars.

Apache – A thornless variety that produces the largest berries and highest yield. The berries ripen during the month of June and have a good flavor. Chilling Hours: 400 – 500. Height and Width: 6’ H x 6’ W.

Arapaho – A thornless variety with large firm fruit and small seeds. The berries ripen in early May with good quality fruit. Chilling Hours: 400 – 500. Height and Width: 6’ H x 6’ W. 

Brazos – Thorny, upright plant that produces big crops of large, high quality berries in June. The flavor is tart, acid. Chilling Hours: 350 – 400. Height and Width: 6’ H x 6’ W. 

Blueberry – All blueberries are self-pollinating, but will produce more blueberries if pollinated by another variety. Blueberries need an acid soil and one can use Miracle-Gro’s Selection of soil mixes (MG).  MG Azalea Soil, or MG Rose Soil or the Humus and Cow Manure Mix. Also, add mulch or pine straw to help with the acidity of the soil. Apply a slow-release Azalea or Camellia fertilizer in early spring (March) and summer (June). Recommended fertilizer rates are 2 ounces per plant, per year, per age of plant, up to a maximum of 8 ounces per plant per year. Apply ½ the recommended rate in March and ½ in June. Spacing: 6’ – 10’ apart. The cultivars Brightwell, Climax, Pink Lemonade (Premier, and Tifblue are recommended for the south and make excellent choices for the home gardener.

Brightwell – Tall and spreading growth that produces large, firm fruit, which ripens early-mid June. Chilling Hours: 350 – 400. Height and Width: 8’ H x 8’ W.

Climax – Upright growth and one of the earliest ripening varieties with medium, dark blue fruit that ripens at one time. This variety makes a good pollinator for the other varieties mentioned. Ripens late May – early June. Chilling Hours: 450-500. Height and Width: 8’ H x 8’ W. 

Pink Lemonade – Vigorous, upright growth habit. Spring flowers with a pink tint, followed by green fruit that changes to a deep pink when ripe. Berries ripen mid-June. Low Chilling Hours: 150 – 250. Height and Width: 5’ H x 5’ W.

Premier – Is one of the more popular varieties for its higher yields and early ripening. The fruit ripens in mid-June producing large, bright blue fruit of excellent quality. Chilling Hours: 500 – 600. Height and Width: 8’ H x 8’ W.

Tifblue – Most productive variety that is widely planted because of berry quality, high yields, and overall appearance. Upright, vigorous plant producing medium, light-blue berries that maintain their quality on the plant. Berries ripen mid-June. Chilling Hours: 500 – 600. Height and Width: 8’ H x 8’ W. 

Citrus – All citrus are self-pollinating and requires well-drained soil. Fertilize with a citrus fertilizer such as 12-10-10 and the fertilizer selected should have micro nutrients included. Start fertilizing new planted trees when new growth starts. For older citrus trees, fertilized 4 times a year, but no later than October for the last application. Keep the planted area free from grass 2 – 5 feet away from the trunk and do not use mulch because the mulch will cause fungus problems, but use pine straw instead. Fruit ripens on the tree.

Fig – All figs are self-pollinating. Easy to low maintenance and produce heavy amounts of fruit. Fertilize with an 8-8-8 or a 12-12-12. Fertilization should not begin for at least 3 months after planting. A root stimulator or Super Thrive can be used at planting time. These products help the plant or tree to establish new roots. Recommended fertilizers for Fig trees is an 8-8-8, or a 12-12-12 that is applied in the spring. Spread the recommended amount of fertilizer uniformly from the drip line to the trunk of the tree. Avoid fertilizing after June, new growth is more susceptible to winter damage. Recommended fertilizer rates for Fig trees is: 1^st year – ½ pound per plant and apply at bud swell (February – early March). After 1^st year 1 pound per plant per year of growth up to a maximum of 10 pounds per plant. For example: your tree is 12 years old, you would apply 10 pounds per plant. Keep the planted area free from grass 2-5-feet away from the trunk. Spacing: 10’ x 10’ apart. Did you know that the houseplant Ficus benjamina, or Ficus tree, is related to the Fig tree? Figs natural growth habit is a large shrub, but can be trained as an espalier. Listed below are a few cultivars recommended for the South.

Brown Turkey – Fruit is medium size, bronze skin with white flesh, very sweet and is good for making preserves. This variety is very prolific and bears on young wood. Long ripening season from mid-July to mid-September. Chill hours: 100. Height and Width: 15-20’ H x 15-20’ W.

Celeste – Medium sized fruit that bears on two year old wood. Celeste is the most widely planted variety and is a large tree, up to 20 feet. Ripening begins in June and will continue for 3 to 6 weeks. Chill hours: 100-150. Height and Width: 20’ H x 20’ W.

LSU Gold – Golden medium sized fruit of good quality. LSU Gold has a more upright growth than Brown Turkey or Celeste. Ripening begins in July. Chill hours: 100-150. Height and Width: 20’ H x 20’ W.

Grapes – All grapes are self-pollinating, and need to be supported by a trellis. Fertilize in the spring (March-April) when vines start to leaf out with a 10-10-10 or a 12-12-12 and apply Ammonium nitrate ½ pound per plant in early summer (mid-June). Grapes are not heavy feeders. The first year, apply ¼ of a pound per plant, second year apply ½ pound per plant, third year apply 1 pound per plant, after the third year apply 2 pounds per plant. Spacing: 10’ – 15’ apart. Listed below are a few cultivars.

Concord – Excellent, bluish, black grapes good for juice or jellies. Fruit ripens September. Chilling Hours: 100. Height and Width: 5’ H x 60’ W.

Niagara – Very large, light green fruit with a tangy, delicate flavor. Good for eating fresh. Fruit ripens September. Chilling Hours: 100. Height and Width: 5’ H x 60’ W.

Mars – Fruit is medium to large, deep blue, seedless that is good for eating fresh, jellies, or juicing. Chilling Hours: 100. Height and Width: 5’ H x 60’ W. 

Mango – All mangos are self-pollinating and are very sensitive to temperatures that drop below 40° F for extended periods of time. When temperatures drop below 40° F there will be damaged to the flower and temperatures that drop to 30° F or below will damage the trunk of young trees. Wrap the tree with a blanket or frost cloth to prevent trunk damage.  Mango trees should be planted in an area that has good drainage. For newly planted trees fertilize every month with a citrus fertilizer plus minors, or 6-6-6, or 8-8-8, or 10-10-10 plus minors ending in October. Thereafter, fertilize 3 to 4 times a year. The fruit matures in 3 to 6 months and ripens on the tree. 

Muscadine – Most Muscadines are self-pollinating, and need to be supported by a trellis. The varieties that require a pollinator will be listed below. Fertilize in the spring (March-April) when vines start to leaf out with a 10-10-10 or a 12-12-12 and apply Ammonium nitrate ½ pound per plant in early summer (mid-June). Grapes are not heavy feeders. The first year, apply ¼ of a pound per plant, second year apply ½ pound per plant, third year apply 1 pound per plant, after the third year apply 2 pounds per plant. Spacing: 10’ – 15’ apart. Listed below are a few cultivars. 

Albemarle – Self-pollinating, very productive with medium black fruit that is very sweet. Excellent muscadine flavor. Ripens midseason. Chilling Hours: 150. Height and Width: 5’ H x 10 - 12’ W. 

Carlos – Self-pollinating, early to mid-fall harvest. Very large, bronze fruit that is slightly tart, but sweet in flavor. Fruit is good for eating fresh or for wine. Chilling Hours: 150. Height and Width: 5’ H x 60’ W. 

Cowart - Self-pollinating, early to mid-fall harvest. Very large, black fruit that is excellent quality, and flavor. Chilling Hours: 200. Height and Width: 5’ H x 10-12’ W. 

Dixie - Self-pollinating, mid-season harvest. Very large, bronze fruit that is excellent quality, and flavor. Chilling Hours: 200 - 300. Height and Width: 5’ H x 10-12’ W.

Scuppernong – Old time favorite with medium to large, bronze, sweet flavored fruit. A heavy producer that ripens early. This variety is female and needs to be planted with a self-pollinating variety. Chilling Hours: 150-200. Height and Width: 5’ H x 15’ W. 

Southland – Self-pollinating, producing medium to large black fruit of excellent quality and very sweet flavor. Fruit ripens mid-season. Chilling Hours: 150. Height and Width: 5’ H x 10 - 12’ W. 

Summit - This variety is female and needs to be planted with a self-pollinating variety. A heavy producer that has large bronze fruit, of excellent flavor and very sweet which is good for making wine or eating fresh. Chilling Hours: 150. Height and Width: 5’ H x 10 - 12’ W. 

Triumph – A popular early ripening, self-pollinating variety that produces large bronze, very sweet fruit. Chilling Hours: 150-200. Height and Width: 5’ H x 15’ W. 

Peaches – All peaches are self-pollinating, but benefit from another variety to be more productive. Recommended fertilizer for peaches is a balanced fertilizer such as 8-8-8, or 10-10-10, or 13-13-13. All peaches require chilling hours and are listed below. Fertilization should not begin for at least 3 months after planting. A root stimulator or Super Thrive can be used at planting time. These products help the plant or tree to establish new roots. Recommended fertilizers for peach trees is an 8-8-8, 10-10-10, or a 13-13-13 that is applied in the spring. Spread the recommended amount of fertilizer uniformly from the drip line to the trunk of the tree. Avoid fertilizing after June, new growth is more susceptible to winter damage. Recommended fertilizer rates for Peach trees is: 1^st year – ½ pound per plant and apply at bud swell (February – early March). After 1^st year, 1 pound per plant per year of growth up to a maximum of 10 pounds per plant. For example: your tree is 12 years old, you would apply 10 pounds per plant. Keep the planted area free from grass 2-5-feet away from the trunk. Spacing: 20 – 25 feet apart. Listed below are a few cultivars of peach trees.

Belle of Georgia - Self-pollinating, fruit production increases with another peach planted nearby. Old time favorite white-fleshed, freestone peach with partially, red-blushed skin. Fruit is good for fresh eating, low-acid makes flavor very sweet. Ripens second week in July. Chill hours: 850. Height and Width: 25’ H x 25’ W.

Elberta - Self-pollinating, fruit production increases with another peach planted nearby. Large, yellow canning, freestone, sweet fruit. A heavy producer that ripens the third week in July. Chill hours: 850. Height and Width: 25’ H x 25’ W.

FlorDaKing - Self-pollinating, fruit production increases with another peach planted nearby. Early ripening, third week in May. Produces large, yellow-fleshed clingstone fruit. Chill hours – 150. Height and Width: 25’ H x 25’ W. A highly recommended cultivar for the south or USDA zone 9.

FlorDa Prince – Self-pollinating. One of the best peaches for south Texas or USDA zone 9. Chill hours – 150.

June Gold – Self–pollinating. Chill hours – 450 – 600.

Red Skin – Self-pollinating. Chill hours – 750.

Sam Houston – Self-pollinating, fruit production increases with another peach planted nearby. Yellow freestone with high quality, firm flesh. A heavy bearer that ripens mid-June. Height and Width: 15-20’ H x 15-20’ W. Chill hours – 500.

Pecans – All pecans require a pollinator of a different variety for better nut yield. Fertilize with a 12-10-10 three to four times a year.

Plums – Most plums require a pollinator. All plums require chilling hours and a pollinator depending on the variety. Fertilization should not begin for at least 3 months after planting. A root stimulator or Super Thrive can be used at planting time. These products help the plant or tree to establish new roots. Recommended fertilizers for plum trees is an 8-8-8, or a 12-12-12 that is applied in the spring. Spread the recommended amount of fertilizer uniformly from the drip line to the trunk of the tree. Avoid fertilizing after June, new growth is more susceptible to winter damage. Recommended fertilizer rates for plum trees is: 1^st year – ½ pound per plant and apply at bud swell (February – early March). After 1^st year 1 pound per plant per year of growth up to a maximum of 10 pounds per plant. For example: your tree is 12 years old, you would apply 10 pounds per plant. Keep the planted area free from grass 2-5-feet away from the trunk. Spacing: 20 – 25 feet apart. Listed below are a few cultivars and pollinators for plum trees. 

Autumn Rosa - Self-pollinating, fruit production increases with another plum planted nearby. Heavy producer of medium to large heart shaped, purplish-red skinned fruit. Flesh is yellow with red streaks. Ripens later than Santa Rosa, mid-July. Chill hours: 500. Height and Width: 10’ H x 10’ W.

Bruce – requires a pollinator, Santa Rosa is a good pollinator. The fruit is good for canning and bears at a young age. Bruce plums produces large amounts of brilliant wine red fruit with red flesh that ripen early to mid-June.  Chill hours – 500 hours. Height and Width: 10’ H x 10’ W.

Burbank – requires a pollinator, Bruce or Santa Rosa are a good pollinator. The fruit is excellent for eating fresh or for canning with large, purplish red color and yellow flesh. The fruit ripens mid-July and bears early and sets heavily. Chill hours: 200-400. Height and Width: 10-12’ H x 8-10’ W.

Methley – Medium to large reddish-purple fruit with red flesh. The fruit has a sweet flavor that is excellent for eating fresh that ripens early June. Requires a pollinator, Bruce or Morris are good pollinators. Chill hours: 250-350. Height and Width: 10’ H x 10’ W. 

Morris – Best with a pollinator, fruit production increases with another plum planted nearby. The fruit ripens in June with soft yellow flesh that can be eaten fresh, or in jellies and jams. Chill hours: 800. Height and Width: 10-15’ H x 10-15’ W.

Ozark Premier - Best with a pollinator, fruit production increases with another plum planted nearby. Large, juicy, bright red skin with yellow flesh that ripens mid-June. Chill hours: 800. Height and Width: 10-12’ H x 8-10’ W.

Santa Rosa – is self-pollinating, but fruit production increases with another plum tree planted nearby. One of the most popular large freestone plums with yellow flesh that has purplish to crimson skin. Excellent juicy, tart flavor. Fruit ripens mid to late June. Chill hours: 250-350 hours. Height and Width: 10’ H x 10’ W.

Pomegranate – All pomegranates are self-pollinating. Apply a root stimulator or Super Thrive at planting time. These products help the plant or tree to establish new roots in the ground and help with transplanting shock. After establishment, apply a balanced fertilizer such as 8-8-8 twice a year, in March and October or November. For young trees 3-5 years, apply 2 -2 ½ pounds of 8-8-8 a year, 1-1¼ pounds in March and 1-1¼ pounds in October to early November. For older trees 6 years or older, apply 4½ to 6½ pounds of 8-8-8 a year,  2¼ to 3¼ pounds in March and 2¼ to 3¼ pounds in October to early November. Listed below are a few cultivars of Pomegranate trees.

Wonderful - Orange-red blooms in summer followed by red fruit in early fall. The Wonderful variety makes an excellent shrub or small tree. Chill hours: 150-200. Height and Width: 10’ H x 10’ W.

Russian Hardy – This variety will take extreme cold down to -6°. Beautiful orange-red blooms followed by full-sized fruit similar to Wonderful. Chill hours: 150-200. Height and Width: 10’ H x 10’ W.

General Care Instructions: For Fruits, Nuts and Berries Plants please recommend the following ingredients.

Choose an area for planting that is sunny or will receive at least 6 hours of sun a day.

The planting area should be well-drained, except for Bananas.

The planting hole should have a 50/50 mix of 50 percent original soil from the planting hole to 50 percent soil amendments. The reason for a 50/50 mix is that when the planting hole does not contain some of the original soil mixed with the soil amendments the roots do not grow outside the original planting hole.

After planting, water the original root ball of the plant and the planting hole, thoroughly. After watering apply a root stimulator to help reduce planting stress, and apply once a week for the first month, thereafter, once a month for the first six months.

Apply tree stakes, at least 3, to the tree for faster root establishment. Remove in three to six months after planting.

Apply mulch one to three inches deep, except on Citrus Trees. Apply pine straw instead on Citrus Trees.

Newly planted trees should be watered two to three times a week for the first month, after the first month water once a week until established.

Keep newly planted Fruit Trees, Nut Trees, and Berry plants should be free from grass at least two to five feet away from the original root ball.

©Cheryl Ann Meola 2015.  Texas Certified Nursery Professional (TCNP) #1282.