Attracting Hummingbirds to Your Garden

 

Attracting Hummingbirds to Your Garden

Attracting Hummingbirds to your garden can be very easy. All you need to do is follow a few simple steps and you will have these wonderful creatures visiting your garden on a daily basis. You do not need to redesign your entire landscape or hire a professional landscaper to design a Hummingbird Garden for you, because by providing a few key elemental ingredients and plants you can attract beautiful hummingbirds to your garden. There are certain plants that are Hummingbird magnets that you can use to attract Hummingbirds in your area.

To attract and keep Hummingbirds returning to your garden we need to discuss the key elements and simple steps to follow:

q  Create a habitat to encourage Hummingbirds to nest and feed.

q  Provide at least 3 Hummingbird feeders.

q  Provide Nectar rich, tubular flowers.

Creating a Habitat for Hummingbirds to Nest and Feed would involve providing trees or places for the Hummingbirds to nest. This can be provided for the majority of Hummingbird species by having horizontal tree limbs, and shelter from surrounding tree limbs. The material used by most Hummingbirds to build their nest is organic in nature and is available to your Hummingbirds in most back yard habitats. A few of the organic items used by Hummingbirds are downy plant material, bits of leaves, bark, fallen leaves, and moss.  A Hummingbirds diet consists of 90% of their food coming from nectar, and the other 10% of their diet consists of insects. When attracting Hummingbirds to your garden you’ll need to be aware of the use of insecticides on the plants that the Hummingbirds feed upon. There are two ways to approach the use of insecticides in the garden. One way would be let the Hummingbirds take care of your insect problem, or you can use organically friendly insecticides that are safe for Hummingbirds. By providing a consistent supply of nectar rich flowers and an additional supply of nectar coming from the Hummingbird feeders you will have very happy Hummingbirds in your garden.

Providing at Least 3 Hummingbird Feeders will entice more Hummingbirds returning repeatedly to your garden. By providing an additional and constant food source you will encourage Hummingbirds to stay in your garden for food, and to nest. Place your feeders where you can see all the activity going on. You can place the Hummingbird feeders in any tree limb near your patio, or hang from eaves outside a kitchen window, or an exterior window(s) that you frequently visit. By placing your Hummingbird feeder near the places, you frequently visit outdoors your Hummingbirds will eventually become accustomed to your presence and no longer be afraid when you are present. There are two key ingredients to remember when using Hummingbird feeders in addition to nectar rich plants.

1)    Always keep a good supply of nectar in the Hummingbird feeders.

2)    Always clean your Hummingbird feeder once a week to keep your Hummingbirds healthy.

Hibiscus and More has a beautiful selection of Hummingbird Feeders. Click Here to Order Your Hummingbird Feeders.

Providing Nectar Rich, Tubular Flowers will give your Hummingbird Garden an additional food source that will keep your Hummingbirds coming back each year. Attracting Hummingbirds to your garden is an art.  Nutrition for the Hummingbirds, and how to attract Hummingbirds year-round, all must be taken into consideration.  An abundance of nectar rich flowers, at least 3 Hummingbird Feeders as an additional food source, creates a habitat for nesting and feeding all need to be provided.  The more nectar plants that are provided and Hummingbird feeders provided will attract more Hummingbirds to your garden for years to come.

To bring numerous Hummingbirds to your garden you need to plan for masses and clumps of nectar rich perennials and annuals. Both perennials and annuals should be planted, but perennials are more useful since they bloom year-round, thus attracting Hummingbirds throughout the year.  The blooming periods of the annuals should be staggered also, in order to attract Hummingbirds year-round. Both flower shape and flower color are important in regard to attracting Hummingbirds to feed are the best.  Hummingbirds prefer single flowers with a tubular shape and upright blooms for feeding, and they also prefer flowers with bright colors and a distinct scent, with shades of red, from pink to orange being their favored colors. After planting the plants and hanging your Hummingbird feeders it will take some time for the Hummingbirds to find you, and as the year’s progress you will see more Hummingbirds visiting your garden. Each year the Hummingbirds will come back to the same area as the year before. My father’s house in Georgia has a Miss Huff Lantana bush and that same year the bush was planted the Hummingbirds were frequent visitors and continue to this day to visit the Lantana bush each year. Some of the plants that I will mention will also attract butterflies to your garden as well.

Autumn Sage: Salvia greggii 'Maraschino'. Type: Perennial. Height: 3’ – 4’. Spacing: 18” – 24” apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant. 

Autumn Sage

Bee Balm: Monarda spp. Type: Perennial. Height: 3 – 4”. Spacing: 24 – 30” apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant. 

Bee Balm

Blue Porterweed: Stachytarpheta jamaicensis. Type: Perennial. Height: 2 – 3’. Spacing: 24” apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant. 

Porterweed

Butterfly Bush: Buddleia davidii 'Pink Delight'. Type: Perennial. Height: 4 – 6’. Spacing: 4 – 6’ apart. Light Requirements: Full sun. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant.  

Butterfly Bush

Columbine: Aquilegia 'Cardinal'. Type: Perennial. Height: 24 – 28”. Spacing: 18 – 24” apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant.

Cardinal Columbine

Firebush: Hamelia patens. Type: Shrub. Height: To 15’. Spacing: 3 – 5’ apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant.

Firebush

Firecracker Plant: Russelia equisetiformis. Type: Perennial. Height: 36” – 48”. Spacing: 3 – 5’ apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant. 

Firecracker Plant

Garden Canna: Canna X generalis. Type: Perennial. Height: Depends on variety but can range from 3 – 5’. Spacing: 1 – 2’ apart for rhizomes, and 3 – 5’ apart for container plants. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant.

Canna

Homestead Purple Verbena: Verbena canadensis 'Homestead Purple'. Type: Perennial ground cover. Height: 6 – 10”. Spacing: 12 – 24” apart. Light Requirements: Full sun. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant, heat and drought tolerant.

Homestead Purple Verbena

Korean Hyssop: Agastache rugosa. Type: Perennial. Height: 3 – 4’. Spacing: 12 – 18” apart. Light Requirements: Full sun. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant.

Lantana: Lantana camara 'Miss Huff'. Type: Perennial. Height: 4 – 5’. Spacing: 3 – 5’ apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant, heat, and drought tolerant. 

Lantana Miss Huff

Lemon Bottlebrush: Callistemon citrinus. Type: Shrub. Height: To 12’. Spacing: 4 – 6’ apart. Light Requirements: Full sun. Additional Uses: N/A. 

Lemon Bottlebrush

Mexican Sage: Salvia leucantha. Type: Perennial. Height: 2 – 4’. Spacing: 3 – 5’ apart. Light Requirements: Full sun. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant, and drought tolerant.

Mexican Sage

Pentas: Pentas lanceolata. Type: Perennial. Height: To 3’, depends on variety. Spacing: 24 – 36” apart. Light Requirements: Full sun. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant, heat and drought tolerant.

Pentas

Petunia: Petunia X hybrida 'Purple Wave'. Type: Annual. Height: 4 – 6”. Spacing: For a thick coverage, 12 – 15” apart, 3’ apart for regular coverage, plants will spread 3 – 5’. Light Requirements: Full sun. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant, heat and drought tolerant. 

Purple Wave Petunia

Pineapple Sage: Salvia elegans. Type: Perennial in USDA zones 9 – 11, treat as an annual outside zone 9. Height: 3 – 5’. Spacing: 3 – 5’ apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant. Crushed fresh leaves in fruit salads and drinks; the fresh flowers can be used in salads and desserts.

Pineapple Sage

Texas Gold Columbine: Aquilegia chrysantha var. hinckleyana. Type: Perennial. Height: 18 – 36”. Spacing: 12 – 18” apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant.

Texas Hummingbird Mint: Agastache cana. Type: Perennial. Height: 24 – 36”. Spacing: 12 – 18” apart. Light Requirements: Full sun. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant, and drought tolerant.

Trailing Lantana: Lantana montevidensis. Type: Perennial, annual outside USDA zone 8. Height: 18 – 24”. Spacing: 3 – 4’ apart, can spread to 5’. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant, heat and drought tolerant.

Trailing Lantana

Tropical Hibiscus: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis. Type: Shrub, annual outside USDA zone 9. Height: To 12 – 15’, pruning can control height. Spacing: 3 – 5’ apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant, and heat tolerant. 

Tropical Hibiscus

Turk's Cap: Malvaviscus arboreus. Type: Shrub, annual outside USDA zone 9. Height: To 12 – 15’, pruning can control height. Spacing: 3 – 5’ apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant, and heat tolerant. 

Turk's Cap

Wax Begonia: Begonia X semperflorens-cultorum. Type: Annual. Height: 6 – 12”. Spacing: 8 – 12” apart. Light Requirements: Partial shade to shade, the bronze-leaf varieties will tolerate more sun. Additional Uses: None. 

Wax Begonia

Yellow Elder: Tecoma stans (Stenolobium stans). Type: Shrub, annual outside USDA zone 7. Height: To 12 – 15’, pruning can control height. Spacing: 3 – 5’ apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Butterfly attractant, drought, and heat tolerant. 

Yellow Elder

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Hibiscus Plant Care

Hibiscus Plant Care

Hibiscus Plant Care Instructions and Gardening Tips
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis is in the Malvaceae family and all family names end with "aceae". For identification each plant species are placed into a family. To be categorized within a family, each plant species must have technical characteristics. Plants are classified into families based on several criteria, but mainly the flower is the main classifying feature. The scientific community has devised a naming system for plants, a latinized binomial system. The first word is the genus name, the second word is the specific epithet, and together the words form the species name. For example, the scientific name for the plant commonly called southern magnolia is Magnolia grandiflora; the genus is Magnolia, the specific epithet grandiflora. Scientific names are universal and there will be no confusion when one uses the names. Several plants have numerous common names and the one drawback to using common names is that they change from state to state and from county to county. Some common plant names even include part or the entire scientific name. Hibiscus rosa-senensis has more than a few common names: Chinese Hibiscus, Tropical Hibiscus, and Hibiscus. Hibiscus rosa-sinensis is native to southern China and is only winter hardy in tropical regions of the world. Hibiscus' are hardy from USDA zones 9-11 and can be planted in the garden. For gardeners north of zone 9 you may grow Hibiscus' in containers and can winterize the plant in the fall. Following are care instructions and gardening tips to maintain your new Hibiscus.

The key to a plant's success is appropriate soil, light, water, and fertilizer. An appropriately watered and fertilized plant will tolerate more stress than a plant that is not properly cared for. When a plant is under stress that is when the plant is more susceptible to insect and/or disease infestations. The less stress a plant endures the healthier the plant is. Several stress factors that a plant endures can be prevented by proper care.

Immediate Hibiscus Care Upon Arrival For 4" Pots: First, remove the plant(s) from the box and plant sleeves from around the pot. Our Hibiscus plants are shipped on the dry side. Place the plant(s) in a saucer and water the plant until the water starts to collect in the saucer, while the plant is absorbing the water in the saucer, mist the plant(s) with water. This procedure helps the plant gain back some of the water it lost during the shipping process. Do not put your plant in direct sunlight for two weeks because your Hibiscus needs to acclimate to a new growing environment. After your plant is refreshed from their journey you may want to repot your Hibiscus to a larger container, it is recommended to go no larger than 4 inches from the original pot size; an 8-inch azalea type pot will be perfect. First, remove the plastic pot, and fill ¼ of the container with your potting soil. I have had good luck with Scotts Potting Soil or MiracleGro Potting Soil; both soils will provide the drainage that is perfect for growing your Hibiscus. Next, place the 4" root ball in the container, and while holding the root ball in an upright position, fill the container with soil. Water the soil. Hibiscuses are heavy feeders. A Hibiscus fertilizer should have a low phosphorous [P], which is the middle number and a higher analysis of potassium [K], which is the last number. The recommended fertilizers for the Hibiscus are 10-4-12, 9-3-12, or 12-4-18. Osmocote 17-6-10 + minors or Osmocote 18-6-12 is also recommended for Hibiscus and is a time-release fertilizer. Follow the application and frequency rates recommended by the fertilizer company.

Soil: For container-grown Hibiscus use a well-drained soil mixture containing compost and perlite. For Hibiscus to be planted in the landscape use this method: All plants should be evenly moist before planting. Position plants in the area to be planted. While placing the plants be sure the best side or front of the plant is in the area that is most viewed. After the plants are in position take a couple of steps back and view the area from a distance, at different angles of vision, and view the area from inside the house. These steps help to determine if the plant is in the proper place. Turn the pot back and forth several times to make an indentation in the soil with the container. This marks the ground and also helps indicate how wide to dig the planting hole.

The planting hole should be less than the height of the root ball and twice as wide. Use organic compost or soil conditioner and mix it 50-50 with the soil from the planting hole; soil amendments should always be thoroughly mixed with the soil from the planting hole. Apply at a rate of one part soil amendment(s) to two parts planting hole soil. This procedure will help the roots to eventually spread beyond the original planting hole. Do not make the original planting hole too rich with soil amendments because the roots of the plant will never spread out from the original planting hole to the existing soil. Use the container from the plant as a measure and a wheelbarrow to mix any soil amendments with the existing soil.

Place the plant in the hole. The top of the root ball should be 2 inches above normal ground. Fill the planting hole with the soil mixture and add mulch as a top dressing. Next, water the root ball of the plant, planting hole and a small area outside the planting hole thoroughly. After watering, apply a root stimulator on a weekly basis for two months. There are several on the market today to choose from.

Light: Correct light helps to ensure proper growth and health of the plant. Given too little light the plant grows spindly and leggy. When given too much light the plant gets sunburned. Hibiscus needs a minimum of 5 - 6 hours of full sun. When growing your plant indoors give a southern or western exposure. The more hours of sun your Hibiscus receives the happier and healthier it will be. During the warm spring and summer months it is recommended to enjoy your Hibiscus outdoors.

Water: Watering plants on a regular time schedule helps to keep your Hibiscus plant healthy. Keep your Hibiscus evenly moist, but not soggy wet. Let the water run out through the drainage holes at the bottom of the container. Avoid letting the water stand for longer than 24 hours in a saucer. While the Hibiscus is actively growing you may have to water more frequently.

Fertilizer: Fertilizers are the vitamins or the essential elements that a plant needs. The soil, atmosphere, and water usually provide the plant with these essential nutrients. There are times when the soil is generally nutrient deficient and in this case a fertilizer is essential. There are sixteen essential elements to plant nutrition. These elements are separated into two categories, macronutrients and micronutrients. The macronutrients are: oxygen [O], carbon [C], hydrogen [H], nitrogen [N], phosphorus [P], potassium [K], Calcium [Ca], magnesium [Mg], sulfur [S] and are required by the plant in large amounts. Oxygen, carbon and hydrogen are provided to the plant by the atmosphere and water. Required by the plant in small amounts the micronutrients are: iron [Fe], manganese [Mn], zinc [Zn], baron [B], copper [Cu], molybdenum [Mo], and chlorine [Cl]. These elements are the building blocks to plant nutrition.

Using a complete fertilizer can prevent deficiency symptoms. Fertilizers are sold in a wide variety of types such as granular, spikes, cartridges, liquid, water-soluble, and slow-release. Each has advantages depending on what type of plant the gardener is fertilizing. Granular is generally used for lawns, shrubs, and trees. On lawn usage a spreader is required for even distribution. When applying a granular fertilizer, for shrubs, spread the fertilizer around the root zone, and for trees spread evenly under the tree's branch circumference. Apply at the rates recommended by the fertilizer manufacturer. Because granular fertilizer may cause burning, it should not come in contact with a plant's leaves or stems. After applying a granular fertilizer, water thoroughly. Spikes are inserted into the soil at specific locations recommended by the fertilizer manufacture and are usually used for large trees and shrubs. The fertilizer is slowly released when water is applied and will last for a specific amount of time. Cartridges require a cartridge holder that is attached to a garden hose where the water slowly dissolves the fertilizer. A depth of 6 to 10 inches is sufficient. Liquid and water-soluble fertilizers are quickly available to the plant. The liquid or water-soluble products are mixed with water and are applied to container plants or can be poured directly into the soil. Fertilizer companies have made hose-end sprayers to use with their products and can be used at every watering. Time-release is a fertilizer coated with a special material, which allows a small release of nutrients when it is exposed to water. These fertilizers are formulated to last from 3 to 12 months. Temperature is also a factor in the release of the nutrients. Hibiscuses are heavy feeders. A Hibiscus fertilizer should have a low phosphorous [P], which is the middle number and a higher analysis of potassium [K], which is the last number. The recommended fertilizers for the Hibiscus are 10-4-12, 9-3-12, or 12-4-18. Osmocote 17-6-10 + minors or Osmocote 18-6-12 is also recommended for Hibiscus and is a time-release fertilizer. Try our Nutri Star Hibiscus Food 10-4-12 on your Hibiscus that you purchase from Hibiscus and More.

Winterizing Your Hibiscus: Start getting your Hibiscus ready to bring indoors when Daylight Saving Time ends. The temperature slowly starts to drop in the evening leading to cooler nights. Place the Hibiscus in a shady location for two weeks to begin acclimatizing it for interior residence. During this time check your plant for any insects and spray with the appropriate insecticide. Place the Hibiscus in a southern or western exposure. Your Hibiscus may experience yellowing of the leaves and leaf drop. Your plant is just adjusting to their new surroundings. During the winter months it is recommended to use a humidity saucer for your Hibiscus. You can easily make this by getting a saucer and lining the bottom of the saucer with small gravel or pebbles and filling the saucer with water to the level of the stones.

Time to Go Outdoors: Once the weather warms up, to 40 - 50 degrees, you can start acclimatizing your Hibiscus by placing it in the shade outdoors and then slowly move the plant to partial shade and finally to full sun. Now would be a good time to fertilize and prune your Hibiscus. Follow the recommended fertilizer rates listed on the label. Pruning encourages a bushier plant.

Pruning: Is an art but it is also a science. Along the plant's stem are nodes, which are dormant until a cut is made just above that node. The nodes are growing points along the plant's stem. When the plant's stem is cut this stimulates chemical and/or hormonal reactions in the plant. It is these reactions that stimulate the dormant bud to grow. When pruning the dormant buds should face along the outside of the plant's stem, the buds will grow to the outside of the plant. Envision the path the future growing bud will take. This will help prevent future headaches, such as branches growing into each other and rubbing against each other. The best time to prune is in the spring or just before new growth begins to appear.

PRUNING GUIDE LINES:

• Remove branches that cross or rub one another, and dead or diseased wood on the Hibiscus.
• The pruning cut for all branches less than two inches in diameter should be made at a 45-degree angle from the growing bud.
• The growing bud should be pointing toward the outside of the plant. One wants the plant to grow outwards not inwards or on vertical lines.
• The cutting edge of the pruning shears should be on top of the part of the plant to be cut; the hook will be underneath. When done in reverse order a stub will result. The blade should be held as close to the plant as possible.
• All pruning tools should be kept sharp and clean. When pruning diseased plant material always sterilize the tools afterwards.

Pest and Disease Management: There are several ways to prevent insects and/or diseases in your interior plants or garden. Most important: start with healthy, disease free plants. Proper light, water, and soil requirements usually insure a happy, healthy plant. Incorrect light can either cause the plant to have sunburned leaves, or cause the plant to become leggy and spindly. Both these conditions will weaken the plant causing more susceptibility to insect and/or disease infestations. Incorrect watering will lead to disease infestations. In your garden, do not apply overhead irrigation in the evening hours; this sometimes can lead to diseases. For established gardens and newly transplanted gardens there are preventative measures that can be taken. Tour your garden on a weekly or daily basis looking for signs of ill health or insects, on new growth, on top and underneath the leaves, and for holes in the plant's leaf surface. Here are some clues or symptoms to look for. A caterpillar usually makes holes that start on the edge of the leaf and chews toward the center of the leaf. Some caterpillars work at night. If you suspect a caterpillar and can't see one check the soil underneath the plant; most likely he is hiding in the soil. Holes that start in the middle of the leaf are usually the work of a slug or snail and the plant can disappear quite rapidly. Brown circles on the leaf that enlarge in circumference are usually fungi.

Integrated pest management (IPM) is becoming more popular. The concept is to prevent chemical spraying or to cut down the use of chemical spraying, to monitor the plants for insects or disease, to use biological controls whenever possible, and to use alternative methods of controlling the pest at hand. Some alternative methods of controlling insects include using insecticidal soaps, dormant or summer oils, and biological controls. Some biological controls include: predators that consume other insects such as, Ladybugs just love aphids and the parasite Encarsia formosa, love whitefly that plague poinsettia. Scientists are researching more and more biological controls for the grower and the homeowner.

Prevention is the best cure. Tour the garden looking for signs of damage by insects or disease. Identify the problem, and choose the appropriate action. Spray only the plant or plants that have the problem. Several gardeners have reported good results with insecticidal soaps and the oils; it is better for you, the environment, and the plant.

Happy Gardening From Hibiscus...and More!!!
Cheryl Ann Meola Texas Certified Nursery Professional #1282
© 2005 Cheryl Ann Meola

Rose Care

Let’s Get Ready For Spring

February is the time to prune rose bushes. This annual pruning event rejuvenates roses, and a yearly prune of rose bushes is vital for the long-life and to insure profuse blooms throughout the growing season. There are two times a year when roses are given a hard prune and that is in the spring and fall. The spring prune is where the rose bush is pruned to a height of 24 to 36 inches, and the fall prune the rose bush should be pruned down by one third of the overall height of the bush.

For spring pruning, first look for old cane, dead canes, or canes with brittle wood. Trim off any old canes and twiggy growth. Any cane that is touching or rubbing against each other should be removed.

Second, look at the bud union; the bud union is the area on the rose bush that is slightly swollen. The bud union is sometimes called the graft union. On the bud union look for dry, old, scaly wood and remove it with a dull knife or a stiff brush. The bud union is the area where new shoots will emerge, which will soon produce canes. While inspecting the bud union, also, look for suckers that are occasionally produced below the graft or bud union. If, you see any suckers remove all suckers.

Third, prune the healthy canes back to a finished height of 24 to 36 inches tall. The end result will be a rose bush that is between 24 to 36 inches tall with 6 to 8 healthy canes. If the rose bush has already started a new flush of growth, trim that cane back to a dormant bud. This will initiate more dormant buds to flush out. Along the cane look for a dormant bud that faces towards the outside of the rose bush and prune above the dormant bud to initiate new growth. The new growth should grow towards the outside of the bush and not to the inside of the bush. For old and large canes, or canes bigger than a pencil it is recommended to use a sealing compound such as: Elmer’s glue or orange shellac to help prevent insects and diseases infecting the new cuts. In some areas of the South Cane Bores can be a problem on roses that have large canes and the practice of sealing the canes is highly recommended.

After the pruning is complete dispose of all canes and rake any new or dormant leaf litter. This procedure helps to keep insects and diseases down.

Lastly, a new layer of mulch needs to be added to the roses. The mulch should be at least two to three inches thick. By adding mulch to the rose garden, the mulch will act as a weed barrier; also, keep the roses cool in the summer months and warm in the winter months, and help to conserve water moisture.

When the first new flush of growth appears after the hard prune is when the rose fertilizer, spray, and everyday pruning programs should begin. See below for recommendations.

As a professional horticulturist I pruned the roses in my care every year in the manner mentioned above and had excellent results. For daily, weekly, or fresh cut rose pruning, I recommend trimming your roses during the growing season with the five-fingered leaf method. This method involves looking for the desired rose blossom to be cut; and, also, look for the second or third leaf that has five leaflets and trim underneath that leaf. Also, look for a dormant bud that faces towards the outside of the cane. If, you desire long stem roses one should trim to the desired length or longer than the height of the vase. Using this method helps to keep the rose bush well shaped, and contained during the growing season.

Hibiscus and More Would Like Release Their Secrets To A Successful Rose Garden, and Hibiscus and More would like to recommend the following products for a successful rose garden.

Roses usually will have a Japanese Beetle problem, to combat this problem use “Milky Spore” for control over the larvae (grubs) of Japanese Beetles. Use according to package directions. “Milky Spore” is a biological-friendly alternative to spraying harsh chemicals for Japanese Beetles.

To prevent Blackspot on Roses, spray the bushes after pruning with Pentathlon, formerly known as Manzate. This is a “contact killer” for Blackspot.

Rose are heavy feeders and a regular fertilizing program is essential to an abundance of rose blossoms the entire growing season. Hibiscus and More would like to recommend this fertilizer for our reader’s. “Bayer Advanced 2-In-1 Rose and Flower Care” – feeds and protects against insects for 6 weeks. Use according to package directions. As a weekly supplement, Hibiscus and More, would recommend a foliar feed of “Scotts Miracle Gro Rose Food” for those that are not familiar with the rose food it is a water soluble rose food that can be used as a foliar feed or as a soil drench.

Let’s Get Ready For Spring Gardening!!!

Hibiscus and More Would Like To Recommend The Following:

Start Planting Your Spring Vegetable Seeds: Bush Beans, Tomatoes, Peppers, Herbs, and Egg Plant.

Plant Cool Season Vegetables or Vegetables Seeds: Carrots, Beets, Onions (Georgia Sweet), Lettuce, Cabbage, Kale, Spinach, Radishes (matures in 22 days when starting from seed), Peas, Asparagus, and Elephant Garlic. To start your vegetable garden Hibiscus and More recommends purchasing containers 16 inches to 30 inches for all your gardening needs.

With Spring just around the corner bring, in branches of Flowering Quince, Forsythia, and Spirea to enjoy indoors. Place the branches in a vase and they will bloom in a few days.

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Happy Spring Gardening From Hibiscus and More