Mother's Day Sale & April Newsletter

Mother’s Day Sale & April Newsletter

Hibiscus and More would like to honor all the gardening mother’s that have visited the web site throughout the years. We would like to thank each and every visitor with my Mother’s Day sale. This year’s Mother’s Day Sale is dedicated to my mother, June Meola, who taught me the passion and love of gardening. My mother is one of the reasons we started the web site: Hibiscus and More because I wanted to share my passion in gardening and growing plants to a larger audience, the World Wide Web. The goal of Hibiscus and More is to provide honest and up to date gardening advice, and to provide high quality plants and gardening merchandise at a reasonable price.

Spring Chores For April and May:

We have had an unusual hard, cold winter this year, and spring is a little late. We have had a few reports that numerous plants are about a month behind in their usual bloom date. Gardening friends in GA informs us that as of 3-21-2010 the Daffodils and Forsythias are just starting out, and only the Bradford Pears with flowers. I lived in GA for 10 years and my mother’s Daffodils always bloomed in early February.

Plant: Spring is one of the best times to look for trees, shrubs, and roses. Numerous flowering shrubs and trees are in bud or full bloom in your area, and certain species of plants are only offered during spring.

Roses: Your roses should be trimmed between February 12 – 20; if you have not pruned your hybrid tea roses it is not too late to trim them now. For more information on trimming, caring, and fertilizing your roses click on my blog.

Vegetable Gardening: Garden center retailers are still reporting skyrocketing sales for vegetable starts and seeds this year versus last year’s sales. Start planning and planting your vegetable garden now to reap the rewards of homegrown vegetables, if you are thinking about having a vegetable garden this year, today is the time to start. Vegetables can also, be planted in large containers or raised planter beds. Put on your gardening gloves and reap the rewards and benefits of a spring vegetable garden. According to gardening experts, the second week in April is the time to start planting: Tomatoes, Peppers, Eggplant, Beans, Corn, Squash, and Cucumbers. For more information on vegetable gardening click on my blog.

Color Annuals: April or May is the month to start thinking about replacing your cool weather color annuals with spring and summer annuals. Here are a few of my favorites: Caladiums, Celosia, Coleus, Cosmos, Dahlberg Daisy, Dusty Miller, Gazania, Geranium, Gerbera Daisy, Ivy Geranium, Lantana, Marigolds, Mexican Sunflower, Moss Rose, Periwinkle, Petunia, Primrose, Purslane, Salvia, Snapdragons, Verbena, Wax Begonia, and Zinnia. All of the annuals mentioned can be planted in soil or in containers.

Bulbs: This year our spring bulbs maybe a little late because of our unusual cold winter, but if you have spring bulbs that are still blooming or starting to bloom you may want to enjoy a few of the flowers as fresh cuts indoors. On all perennial bulbs, let the foliage die back naturally, as the foliage dies the bulb transports the nutrients from the foliage to the bulb and will use the nutrients from the foliage and stores these nutrients to the bulb for next year’s growth and flowers. As the foliage dies, it may look untidy and displeasing. To alleviate this annoyance, you can pull up the foliage in a bunch and then roll the foliage down as you would a paper bag, and then tie the rolled-up foliage with a rubber band.

Shrubs: Trim your spring flowering shrubs after they finish blooming and fertilize with the appropriate plant food.

Azaleas: Once your azaleas finish blooming trim back to shape. Azaleas bloom on last year’s growth so it is important to trim your Azaleas no later than the middle of June. Azalea’s set their blooms during the fall months, and this is one reason to trim your Azaleas during the time frame that is provided. After pruning your Azaleas, you need to fertilize them with an Azalea plant food and also add a new layer of mulch. Instead of throwing your spent coffee or tea grounds away your Azaleas will benefit from sprinkling the grounds around your Azalea bushes, and any acid loving plant such as Ferns, Tropicals, Junipers, Boxwoods, Camellias, Rhododendrons, and Hollies.

Hibiscus Care: Time to Go Outdoors. Once the weather warms up in your area, to 40 - 50 degrees, you can start acclimatizing your Hibiscus by placing it in the shade outdoors and then slowly move the plant to partial shade and finally to full sun. With the unusual weather we have been experiencing this spring bring your prized Hibiscus plant back indoors if you get freeze warnings. Now would be a good time to fertilize and prune your Hibiscus. Follow the recommended fertilizer rates listed on the label. Pruning encourages a bushier plant. 

Houseplants: April is the time to move your houseplants outdoors and place them in an area that is full shade. The temperatures should be around 45-50 degrees at night before moving them outdoors. After a few weeks you can move them to an area that receives filtered shade, in other words, morning light, afternoon shade. This is also, the time to check for any bugs on your plant. Be sure to check underneath the leaves, and if you see those pesky critters on your prized houseplants spray with an insecticidal soap or horticulture oil.

Hibiscus and More’s Mother Day Sale Is To Honor Mother’s Around The World and we are Offering A Wonderful Sale Of Gardening Themed Products. To insure on time delivery by Mother’s Day all purchases should be ordered no later than April 25.  

Give the gift of flowers that will last forever floral fine art prints. Do you see a print that is sold out? Are you looking for a flower or foliage print not listed? Send an email to Cheryl@hibiscusandmore.com to order.

Happy Mother’s Day From Hibiscus And More. ©Cheryl Meola 2022.

 

January Gardening Calendar 2015

January Gardening Calendar

Bare Root Roses will be arriving soon at local garden centers. Prepare planting beds by digging an area 4 feet wide by 12 inches deep for each rose. Soak bare root roses in a mixture of SuperThrive and water for 24 to 48 hours before planting. For more information on Rose Care Click Here.

Poinsettias water only when the soil is dry to the touch. Start fertilizing in March. Poinsettias need bright light and cool temperatures even indoors.

Deciduous Trees and Shrubs the structure of the trees can be easily seen this time of year. Prune all branches that rub or cross each other. Trees and shrubs can be planted now. Plan to plant on a warm day when the ground is not frozen. When the weather warms for a week or longer, and then the temperatures drop into the twenties, cover Camellias and Gardenias nightly until the temperatures are above freezing. The last week in January prune Pear and Apple trees, and Grape vines.

Vegetable Garden till the soil, if the ground is dry. This preventative measure helps to eliminate weeds, insects, and nematodes. Don’t have room for a vegetable garden, but would like to grow your own vegetables? All vegetables can be grown in large planters such as these offered at Hibiscus and More’s. In fact, that is how I grow my vegetables each season. For more information on Spring Vegetable Gardening Click Here. 

Prune Pampas Grass and all other ornamental grasses down to about 12 inches. Prune Lantana and Cannas to about 2 to 3 inches. Shape Crepe Myrtles and Altheas and remove old seed heads.

Annuals water winter annuals like pansies, violas, ornamental cabbage and kale, after a hard freeze. This helps to rehydrate the annuals faster. Water outside container plants before a hard freeze, too.

Houseplants check for insects. Insects like mealy bugs, scale, spider mites are more likely to infest your plants during the winter months. Spray with a horticultural oil or insecticidal soap, and make sure you spray underneath the leaves. Turn your houseplants a quarter to half turn once a week. This prevents leaning of your houseplants. I turn mine once a week when I water my houseplants. 

Need more gardening advice? Follow our BlogSpot for current sales, daily specials, and sound gardening advice. Simply click on Join This Site Link under Followers. Sign Up Is Free. View Current Blog Post Click Here.

©Cheryl Ann Meola

Texas Certified Nursery Professional #1282

August Gardening Calendar 2014

August Gardening Calendar

Prune Tropical Hibiscus you plan to bring indoors for the winter. Plan to place your plant in the sunniest window during the winter months. Trim back enough to fit your location indoors and bring your Hibiscus inside around December or before first frost. After pruning check your Hibiscus for insects and spray with appropriate insecticide. Now is a good time to fertilize your Hibiscus. Hibiscuses are heavy feeders and should be fertilized monthly. 

Remove faded blooms and seedpods on your Crepe Myrtles. You may be rewarded with more blooms before first frost. The recommended fertilizer formulation for Crepe Myrtles is 10-15-9 or a similar combination. Don’t forget to fertilize your Crepe Myrtles.

Roses prune out dead canes, and weak, bushy growth. Cut back tall, vigorous bushes by 1/3 the original plant height. Fertilize roses on a monthly basis until October. After pruning you should see new blooms coming in about 6 weeks.

Azaleas Lace bugs on your Azaleas increase rapidly in summer. Check your Azaleas for insects. The damaged caused by these sucking insects looks like tiny white dots and the entire leaf is almost completely white. Spray with appropriate insecticide labeled for Azalea Lace Bugs. 

Lawns check your grass for insects, especially for chinch bugs and white grubs. These insects are most active in the summer months. The signs for chinch bugs are irregular circles, and the grass is thin, and then dies. For white grubs, the signs are irregular circles, and the grass is loosely rooted. Check the soil underneath the loosely rooted grass by digging up the soil, the grubs should be about an inch down in the soil, if you have them. Apply the appropriate insecticide and follow the package directions carefully. 

Lawn Mower Blades should be sharpened once each summer. A sharpened lawn mower blade prevents shredding the grass, and giving your lawn a nice, clean cut.

Mulch check all shrub beds and trees for mulch thickness. We are experiencing extreme heat this summer and shrubs and trees that have 2 to 3 inches of mulch keeps the roots cool and helps the soil retain moisture.

Fruits and Vegetables Start planning your fall vegetable garden this August. Till the soil and add Gypsum and Composted Cottonseed hull. The additives lowers the alkalinity and helps the soil stay loose. Tomatoes, Peppers, and Beans should planted by August 1^st. Starter plants usually are available by August 15^th. Pick the varieties of tomatoes that mature in 65-70 days. Cool season vegetables, broccoli, carrots, lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower, swiss chard, collards, kale, and snow peas are planted in September. Blackberry and Raspberry plants at this time of year have a tendency to trail along the ground. Take the trailing canes or runners and tie them back to their arbor. For more information on planting fall vegetables click to read my blog post Here.

Seeds sow cool season seeds of snapdragons, dianthus, pansies, calendulas, and sweet alyssum to be planted in mid to late fall. Sow seeds of bluebonnets and other Georgia spring wildflowers this month to be planted in the garden. The wildflowers will establish a root system during the fall for spring blooms.

Tropical Foliage Plants Check plants that are spending the summer outdoors for insects. Use an insecticidal soap, if needed. Your houseplants can be fertilized biweekly with a water soluble plant food. Hibiscus and More has a wonderful selection of houseplants. 

Need more gardening advice? Follow our BlogSpot for current sales, daily specials, and sound gardening advice. Simply click on Join This Site Link Under Followers. Sign Up Is Free. View Current Blog Post Click Here.

Save 25% off Plant Stands and Garden Décor. Click to view new plant stand and garden décor.

 

Save 25% off Wind Spinners. Click to view new wind spinners.

Save 25% off Windmills and Weather Vanes. Click to view new windmills and weather vanes.

Save 25% off Cedar Planters, Boxes, and Cubes. Click to view cedar planters, boxes, and cubes.

Cheryl Ann Meola

Certified Texas Nursery Professional #1282

                

Container Gardens and Color Bowls

Planting Container Gardens and Color Bowls

This year let’s start a new gardening project to renovate your landscape, patio, deck, or balcony with container gardens and color bowls. Container gardens and color bowls can be easily made by the gardener. The containers and bowls can be made of ceramic, clay, cedar, or wood, and come in a variety of sizes, colors, and shapes. Container gardens and color bowls are planted with a gardening theme or style such as: shade tolerant plants, sun tolerant plants, plants with bold colors, heat tolerant plants, drought tolerant plants, herb plants, vegetable plants, butterfly plants, hummingbird plants, just to name a few container garden themes; or you can have a combination gardening theme such as herbs and vegetables, butterfly and hummingbird plants. Before we start our gardening, project here are a few components to take into consideration such as location, container size, and soils to use.

Location(s): To start you need to decide the location or if you are planting more than one garden or bowl locations. Depending on how much sun or shade the location receives will determine what container garden theme or style to use. 

Container Size(s): After deciding the location of your container garden you need to choose a container size because the size of the container will determine what type of theme or style of garden to proceed with. For herbs and vegetables theme gardens choose a container 18 inches or larger and for color bowl theme gardens use a 12-inch bowl or larger. Your local nursery or garden center will have a wonderful selection of containers to choose from.

Soil: One secret to success with container gardening is the potting soil that you use. There are several potting soils on the market and choosing one is a matter of your gardening preferences. Some of the choices are inorganic verses organic, with moisture control or without moisture control, with timed-release fertilizer or without fertilizer. Some potting soils are especially formulated for the type of plants that you choose such as herbs and vegetables potting soil or soils that are formulated for annuals and perennials; these would make an excellent choice to use for your container garden. 

Fertilizer: Fertilizers are the vitamins or the essential elements that a plant needs. The soil, atmosphere, and water usually provide the plant with these essential nutrients; but there are times when the soil is generally nutrient deficient and in this case a fertilizer is essential. There are sixteen essential elements to plant nutrition. These elements are separated into two categories, macronutrients and micronutrients. The macronutrients are: oxygen [O], carbon [C], hydrogen [H], nitrogen [N], phosphorus [P], potassium [K], Calcium [Ca], magnesium [Mg], sulfur [S] and are required by the plant in large amounts. Oxygen, carbon and hydrogen are provided to the plant by the atmosphere and water. Nutrients required by the plant in small amounts are the micronutrients: iron [Fe], manganese [Mn], zinc [Zn], baron [B], copper [Cu], molybdenum [Mo], and chlorine [Cl]. These elements are the building blocks to plant nutrition. There are several fertilizers on the market and choosing one is a matter of your gardening preferences. Some of the choices are water soluble, granular, time-release, slow-release, organic, or inorganic. Choose a fertilizer that is formulated for the plants you have chosen. Most gardeners agree in using a combination of time-release fertilizer and a weekly or bi-weekly feeding of a water-soluble fertilizer of your choice. I highly recommend Osmocote 17-6-10 or Osmocote 18-6-12, which is a time release fertilizer that will last up to four months and the next time to feed my containers I put on the calendar.

Insecticide(s): When growing plants in containers, you may want to consider an IPM (Integrated Pest Management) approach method to control insects on your plants and using an IPM approach involves a two-step method approach, inspection of the plants, and what type of control method you are going to use. The first part would be scouting, observing, and inspecting your prized plants for insects or chew marks on the leaves. Constantly scouting and observing daily for any insect or worm that would start eating your prize plants, and when one is seen, you can simply dispose of the insect. However, sometimes these critters multiply overnight and when this happens it is advisable to spray with Safer Soap or Horticultural oil. Using Safer Soaps or Horticultural Oils on all your plants is an organic and an IPM approach to container gardening success. 

Watering: Of all the ingredients that have been mentioned for Container gardening success, water, is the most important to a successful Container gardening. The soil for your plants will need to be consistently moist at all times, but not soggy wet and the water source should be city water or treated water especially when growing herbs and vegetables in containers. This is one of the reasons of Salmonella outbreaks on produce; the herbs that were recalled received Salmonella during either the growing process or the production process. Due to all the current recalls of produce, more gardeners are starting to grow their own herbs and vegetables this year versus last year due to the recent outbreaks in store-bought produce. Just another reason to start growing your own herbs and vegetables, you supply the water, you supply the insecticide, and you know exactly what ingredients went into your herbs and vegetables. For states that are currently under water restrictions, you can water your food crops, personal food garden, or personal herb garden without penalty. Always wash all herbs and vegetables before eating or cooking, whether home grown or store-bought.

Designing the Container Garden: The retail garden centers markets some of the plants for container gardens as: spillers, thrillers, and fillers to give the gardening consumer an easier way to choose plants for their container gardens or color bowls. Spiller plants trail down the sides of the container and are consider a trailing or vine type of plant such as: English Ivy, Wave Petunia, and Sweet Potato Vine. The spillers will be planted along the edges or in the corners of your container. Thriller plants will be an upright plant or plants and will be taller than all the plants in your container garden which is placed in the center of your container. Thriller plants can be ornamental grasses, salvias, upright rosemary, snapdragons, and stock. Filler plants are just like the name describes and fill the middle of your container garden. These plants are upright in nature and will be shorter than your thriller plant. Filler plants could include the shorter salvias and snapdragons, dianthus, marigolds, zinnias just to name a few.

After choosing your spiller, thriller, and filler plants arrange the plants as how they’re going to be planted in the container or bowl. I do this on a flat surface and by doing so you get an idea of how the plants will look before they’re planted in the container.

Here are a few tips and questions the gardener needs to decide before starting their container garden or color bowl project.

·         Decide the location of the container or bowl, the location decides how much sunlight the plants will receive.

·      The sunlight will determine the type of plants you will use, sunny or shady plants.

·        Decide your container size. This will help determine how many plants to use and it is not a gardening crime to overfill your container.

·         The size of the container and the soil you choose will determine how frequently the container will need to be watered.

 

Hibiscus and More is now offering fresh herbs for your gardening pleasure.

Any questions you have about your container garden or color bowl can be answered at cheryl@hibiscusandmore.com 

All photographs and digital images are ©Cheryl Ann Meola 2014. All Rights Reserved. All photographs and digital images displayed in this article are for viewing purposes only and cannot be duplicated. ©Cheryl Ann Meola 2014.

Pollinators For Fruit Trees and Berries

Pollinators For Fruit Trees and Berries

Most fruit trees require pollination and chilling temperatures from November to mid-February to break dormancy in the spring. Pollination is the process of pollen from one flower being transferred to another flower, required by certain plants and trees. The process of pollination can be by insects, animals, wind, or humans.  Fruit trees need pollination for good fruit set, which occurs when a recommended fruit tree, (pollinator) is planted nearby. A pollinator can be describe as a tree or shrub that produces flowers at the same time and needs to be a different variety or cultivar, but of the same fruit. For example, apples pollinate other apple trees. For good pollination, the recommended spacing is 50 to 75 feet apart. When a fruit tree or berry plant is described as self-pollinating, the tree or berry plant is pollinated by their own flowers, but it is recommended to plant more than one for better fruit set. A plant or tree starts to go dormant when exposed to chilling temperatures. Chilling temperatures for a plant or tree are when night time temperatures drop to 45°F or below. Chill hours can be described as the number of hours the plant or tree receives temperatures at or below 45°F. Listed below are a few cultivars and pollinators for southern fruit trees, nuts trees, and berry plants.

Apples – All apples require pollinator depending on the variety. Listed below are a few cultivars for the south. Chilling hours are when night time temperatures are 45° or below.

Anna requires a pollinator with another cultivar. Dorsett Golden is a good pollinator for the Anna cultivar. Chilling Hours: 200 – 300.

Dorsett Golden - requires a pollinator with another cultivar. The Anna cultivar is a good pollinator for Dorsett Golden. Chilling Hours: 250.

Ein Shemer – self-pollinating and very productive. Anna and Dorsett can be used as pollinators. Chilling Hours: 200.

Fuji – requires a pollinator and tolerates summer heat. Any cultivar is good for pollination. Chilling Hours: 400 – 600 hours.

Gala – requires a pollinator and tolerates summer heat. Golden Delicious can be used a pollinator. Chilling Hours: 600.

Golden Delicious – benefits from a pollinator, Red Delicious. Chilling Hours: 600 – 700.

Granny Smith – self-pollinating and heat resistant. Chilling Hours – 500 – 600.

Red Delicious – benefits from a pollinator, Golden Delicious. Chilling Hours: 900.

Avocado – Avocados are self-pollinating, but benefit from a pollinator. Choose a different cultivar as a pollinator. Avocado trees should be planted in a well-drained area. Keep the planted area free from grass 2 – 5 feet away from the trunk. Fertilize newly planted trees every 2 months for the first year starting when new growth appears after planting. The second year after planting fertilize 3 to 4 times a year ending in October. Use a fertilizer recommended for Citrus, Avocado, and Mango or 10-6-4 or 6-4-4.

Banana – are heavy feeders and require sufficient amounts of water. Keep the planted area free from grass 2 – 5 feet away from the trunk. Fertilize every month with a fertilizer recommended for Citrus, Avocado, and Mango, or 10-6-4, or 6-4-4. Bananas are clumping by nature and the new growth or suckers should be removed by cutting down to the soil line. Always keep at least 5 mature banana stalks. When the banana stalk produces fruit and is ready to be harvested cut off the bananas and then cut down the entire banana stalk that produced the fruit. At this time, let another sucker mature to produce fruit, but always keep at least 5 mature banana stalks. One can tell the banana is ready to be harvested when the fruit starts to turn yellow in color. If, the bananas start to split before harvesting increase the water times or the amount of water received by the plant.

Blackberry – All blackberries are self-pollinating and can grow on poor soil and will produce fruit after the second year of planting. Apply 10-10-10 or 16-16-8 fertilizer in early spring and after fruit production is done. The canes only produce fruit once and should be removed and cut down to the ground.

Blueberry – All blueberries are self-pollinating, but will produce more blueberries if pollinated by another variety. Blueberries need an acid soil and you can use Miracle-Gro (MG) Azalea Soil, or MG Rose Soil, or Humus and Cow Manure Mix. Also, add mulch or pine straw to help with the acidity of the soil. Apply a slow-release Azalea type fertilizer in early spring and summer.

Citrus – All citrus are self-pollinating and requires well-drained soil. Fertilize with a citrus fertilizer. Start fertilizing new planted trees when new growth starts. For older citrus trees, fertilized 4 times a year, but no later than October for the last application. Keep the planted area free from grass 2 – 5 feet away from the trunk and do not use mulch, but use pine straw instead. All citrus trees can be grown in a large cedar planter box. Click to view cedar planter boxes on sale at HibiscusAndMore.com.

Fig – All figs are self-pollinating, easy to low maintenance and produce heavy amounts of fruit. Figs natural growth habit is a large shrub, but can be trained as an espalier.

Grapes – All grapes are self-pollinating and need a support such as a trellis, lattice, or fence. Fertilize in the spring and early summer the first two years after planting with a 10-10-10 or 12-12-12. Grapes are not heavy feeders.

Mango – All mangos are self-pollinating, but will produce more fruit if pollinated with another variety. Mangos are very sensitive to temperatures that drop below 40° F for extended periods of time. When temperatures drop below 40° F there will be damaged to the flower and temperatures that drop to 30° F or below will damage the trunk of young trees. Wrap the tree with a blanket or frost cloth to prevent trunk damage. Newly planted trees fertilize every month for the first year with 6-6-6, or 8-8-8, or 10-10-10 plus minors ending in October. Thereafter, fertilize 3 to 4 times a year.

Peaches – All peaches are self-pollinating, but will benefit from another variety to be more productive.

Pecans – All pecans require a pollinator of a different variety for better nut yield.

Plums – Most plums require a pollinator. For pollinators use a different variety. Plum trees require 400 to 500 chill hours.

Pomegranate – All pomegranates are self-pollinating. Wonderful variety productive. Planting two or more improves fruit set.

Strawberries – All strawberries are self-pollinating and can be grown in a hanging basket.

Buy Fruit Trees Online Click Here.

Do you have a gardening? Ask the Certified Nursery Professional.

Spring is just around the corner...with, or without all of this snow!   It's the perfect time to add a bit of early color out there in your garden with one of Coë Steinwart's bright and colorful garden flags! Click to Order.

Attract birds to your garden with different types of bird feeders. Bird experts recommend a selection of bird feeders that hold wild birdseed, thistle seed, and some that have suet cake holders. Hibiscus And More has an excellent selection of Bird Feeders. Click to Order.

Photography and digital images are ©Cheryl Ann Meola 2014. All Rights Reserved. All photographs and digital images displayed in this article are for viewing purposes only and cannot be duplicated ©Cheryl Ann Meola 2014. Texas Certified Nursery Professional #1282.

Planting and Growing Tomato Plants

Planting and Growing Tomato Plants

As the weather warms, we gardeners start thinking about gardening again. With this in mind I would like to mention the wonderful benefits of growing tomatoes.

Home-grown tomatoes have a richer, fuller, and better taste than store bought since you pick them yourself. Home-grown tomatoes are easy and inexpensive to grow as well. Growing tomatoes has a lot of appeal: it can involve the entire family from the little ones to the teens. As well as being an educational tool, the time the family spends in the garden is quality time spent together and can give one a sense of pride. For gardener’s who live in a condo, apartment, or townhome tomatoes can be grown in a container.

Choosing a Location: Choose an area that gets 5 - 6 hours of full sun; and if, you have an area that receives more than 6 hours of sunlight that’s all right, too.

Choosing a Container(s): Pick a container that is 14 inches or larger, and I would like to suggest when growing tomatoes to put one plant per container. 

Choosing Potting Soil: When choosing a potting soil there are several commercial potting soils available, and choosing one is a matter of your gardening preferences, some of the choices are inorganic verses organic, with moisture control or without moisture control, with timed-release fertilizer or without fertilizer. Some potting soils are especially formulated for vegetables and can be used as a potting soil in containers or a soil amendment to your vegetable garden plot.

Choosing a Fertilizer: When choosing a fertilizer there are several commercial fertilizers that are available, and choosing one is a matter of your gardening preferences, some of the choices are water soluble, granular, time-release, slow-release, organic, or inorganic. Choose a fertilizer that is formulated for vegetable plants and include the minor-element calcium. Current research has discovered that calcium is an important minor-element in fertilizers, especially for vegetable fertilizers. The research discovered that a lack of calcium in the soil is the cause of Blossom End Rot in tomatoes and other vegetables. When your vegetable fertilizer does not include the minor-element of calcium you can use one of the following: Crushed eggshells, Calcium Supplement Pills, (for people, but works just as well on plants), Nutri-Cal, Epsom Salts, Gypsum, or Powdered Lime.

The eggshells can be put into a blender or food processor to be crushed and mixed until the eggshells are a dry powder. Apply to plant(s) every two weeks. Eggshells contain 95 percent calcium carbonate.

The over-the-counter calcium supplement pills we take every day can be used to increase the calcium levels in your tomato plants. Use 2 tablets per plant mixed with a gallon of water. The tablets can be crushed or just dissolve thoroughly in water. The calcium water mixture can be added to your water soluble fertilizer.

Nutri-Cal is a liquid calcium supplement that can be purchased at most garden centers that is sprayed on the tomato plant. For good results please follow package directions.

Epsom salts has been recommended to relieve calcium deficiencies in soils and is highly recommended by organic gardeners. Apply 1 tablespoon, dry Epsom salts per plant and water in thoroughly after applying; or mix 2 tablespoons per gallon of water and water the tomatoes with the mixture.

To increase the calcium levels of soils that are more alkaline use Gypsum (calcium sulfate) and follow package directions. For soils that are more acidic use Powdered Lime (calcium carbonate). This product is also labeled as Calcitic Lime, Dolomitic Lime and will increase the soil’s alkalinity.

Choosing an Insecticide: When choosing an insecticide there are several available at your local garden center and choosing one is a matter of your gardening preferences, and while I was growing tomatoes, I had an IPM (Integrated Pest Management) approach method. I would only use Safer Soaps or Horticultural Oils on all the tomatoes that I grew, and realistically I hardly had to spray the tomatoes at all. I was constantly watching for any insect or worm that would start eating my prize tomatoes, and when I did see one, I would simply dispose of the insect.

Choosing a Vegetable Support: Most tomato plants will need to be staked or will need a vegetable cage to support the plant. Put the tomato cage or vegetable cage around the plant shortly after planting.

Watering: Of all the ingredients that I have mentioned for tomato gardening success, water, is the most important to successful tomatoes. The soil for your plants will need to be consistently moist at all times, and the water source should be city water or treated water. This is one of the reasons for E. coil outbreaks by vegetable growers in past years; the vegetables that were recalled received untreated water during the growing process. More gardeners are starting to grow their own vegetables this year versus last year due to the E. coli outbreaks in store-bought produce. Just another reason to start growing your own vegetables, you supply the water, you supply the insecticide, and you know exactly what ingredients went into your vegetables. For states that are currently under water restrictions, you can water your food crops, personal food garden, or personal vegetable garden without penalty. Wash all vegetables before eating or cooking.

Planting Tomato Plants: Always plant your tomato plants deeper than the original soil line, even if you grow your tomatoes from seed. When you are ready to plant your tomato plants remove two to three sets of the lower leaves or six leaves total and plant the tomato plant that deep in the soil. You just do this with tomatoes and the reason for this procedure is that tomatoes will establish more roots along the stem where you removed the leaves, and tomatoes require a lot more water than the other vegetables, and tomatoes are one vegetable that are heavy feeders, i.e. tomatoes require a steady supply of fertilizer.

An article in Chemically Speaking, January 2009 on honeybees and crop yield that was published may entice my readers to plant more than just a vegetable garden this spring. The article states that planting more flowers to attract honeybees will help plants defend themselves against attacks from caterpillars. The study suggests that this could lead to a new biological control method to try.

Put on your gardening gloves and reap the rewards and benefits of a spring vegetable garden. Tastier vegetables than store bought that you harvest on your own. As a vegetable gardener you know the ingredients, and there is nothing more rewarding than tasting the “vegetables” of your labors.

All photographs and digital images are ©Cheryl Ann Meola 2007. All Rights Reserved. All photographs and digital images displayed in this article are for viewing purposes only and cannot be duplicated.