Fruit Trees, Nut Trees, Berry Plants For The South

Fruits, Nuts, and Berries For The South

Most fruit trees require pollination and chilling temperatures from November to mid-February to break dormancy in the spring. Pollination is the process of pollen from one flower being transferred to another flower, required by certain plants and trees. The process of pollination can be by insects, animals, wind, or humans.  Most fruit trees need pollination for good fruit set, which occurs when a recommended fruit tree, (pollinator) is planted nearby. A plant or tree starts to go dormant when exposed to chilling temperatures. Chilling temperatures for a plant or tree are when night time temperatures drop to 45°F or below. Chill hours can be described as the number of hours the plant or tree receives temperatures at or below 45°F. Listed below are a few cultivars and pollinators for southern fruit trees, nuts trees, and berry plants. 

Apples – All apples require chilling hours and a pollinator depending on the variety. Recommended fertilizers for apple trees is a 10-10-10, or a 10-6-4 that is applied in the spring, summer, and fall. Keep the planted area free from grass 2-5-feet away from the trunk. Listed below are a few cultivars and pollinators for apple trees. 

§        Anna - requires a pollinator with another cultivar. Dorsett Golden is a good pollinator for the Anna cultivar. Chilling Hours: 200 – 300.

§        Dorsett Golden - requires a pollinator with another cultivar. The Anna cultivar is a good pollinator for Dorsett Golden. Chilling Hours: 250.

§        Ein Shemer – self-pollinating and very productive, but fruit production increases with another apple tree planted nearby. One can use Anna or Dorsett as a pollinator. Chilling Hours: 200.

§        Fuji – requires a pollinator and tolerates summer heat. Golden Delicious is good for pollination. Chilling Hours: 400 – 600 hours.

§        Gala – requires a pollinator and tolerates summer heat. Golden Delicious can be used a pollinator. Chilling Hours: 600.

§        Golden Delicious or Yellow Delicious – benefits from a pollinator, Red Delicious. Chilling Hours: 600 – 700.

§        Granny Smith – self-pollinating and heat resistant. Chilling Hours – 500 – 600.

§        Red Delicious – benefits from a pollinator, Golden Delicious. Chilling Hours: 900.

Avocado – Avocados are self-pollinating, but fruit production increases with another Avocado tree planted nearby. Avocado trees should be planted in a well-drained area. Keep the planted area free from grass 2 – 5 feet away from the trunk. Fertilize newly planted trees every 2 months for the first year starting when new growth appears after planting. The second year after planting fertilize 3 to 4 times a year ending in October. Use a fertilizer recommended for Citrus, Avocado, and Mango or a 10-6-4 or a 6-4-4. The Haas cultivar is cold hardy and the fruit is an excellent choice for salads and guacamole. The fruit matures on the tree.

Bananas – are heavy feeders and require sufficient amounts of water. Keep the planted area free from grass 2 – 5 feet away from the trunk. Fertilize every month with a fertilizer recommended for Citrus, Avocado, and Mango, or a 10-6-4, or a 6-4-4. Bananas are clumping by nature and keep at least 5 to 6 mature banana stalks. Any new growth or suckers should be removed by cutting down to the soil line. When a banana blooms, it is the flower that forms the fruit. Once the banana produces a flower and fruits that stalk will die. When harvesting bananas, cut the banana bunch off the tree, and then cut the entire banana stalk to the ground. Then, let a new sucker replace the one that was just cut down. One can tell when the bananas are ready to be harvested when the fruits start to turn yellow in color. If, the bananas start to split before harvesting has occurred increase the water times or the amount of water received by the plant. 

Blackberry – All blackberries are self-pollinating, will tolerate poor soil, and will produce fruit after the second year of planting. Apply 10-10-10 or 16-16-8 fertilizer blend in early spring and after fruit production is done. The canes produce only once and should be removed and cut down to the ground after harvesting the fruit.

Blueberry – All blueberries are self-pollinating, but will produce more blueberries if pollinated by another variety. Blueberries need an acid soil and one can use Miracle-Gro’s Selection of soil mixes (MG).  MG Azalea Soil, or MG Rose Soil or the Humus and Cow Manure Mix. Also, add mulch or pine straw to help with the acidity of the soil. Apply a slow-release Azalea type fertilizer in early spring and summer. The cultivars Tifblue, Climax, Misty, and Legacy are recommended for the south and make excellent choices for the home gardener.

Citrus – All citrus are self-pollinating and requires well-drained soil. Fertilize with a citrus fertilizer such as 12-10-10 and the fertilizer selected should have micro nutrients included. Start fertilizing new planted trees when new growth starts. For older citrus trees, fertilized 4 times a year, but no later than October for the last application. Keep the planted area free from grass 2 – 5 feet away from the trunk and do not use mulch because the mulch will cause fungus problems, but use pine straw instead. Fruit ripens on the tree.

Fig – All figs are self-pollinating. Easy to low maintenance and produce heavy amounts of fruit. Fertilize with an 8-8-8 or a 10-10-10.

Grapes – All grapes are self-pollinating. Fertilize in the spring and early summer the first two years after planting with a 10-10-10 or a 12-12-12. Grapes are not heavy feeders.

Mango – All mangos are self-pollinating and are very sensitive to temperatures that drop below 40° F for extended periods of time. When temperatures drop below 40° F there will be damaged to the flower and temperatures that drop to 30° F or below will damage the trunk of young trees. Wrap the tree with a blanket or frost cloth to prevent trunk damage.  Mango trees should be planted in an area that has good drainage. For newly planted trees fertilize every month with a citrus fertilizer plus minors, or 6-6-6, or 8-8-8, or 10-10-10 plus minors ending in October. Thereafter, fertilize 3 to 4 times a year. The fruit matures in 3 to 6 months and ripens on the tree. 

Peaches – All peaches are self-pollinating, but benefit from another variety to be more productive. Recommended fertilizer for peaches is a balanced fertilizer such as 8-8-8, or 10-10-10, or 13-13-13.

§        FlorDa King - Self-pollinating, fruit production increases with another peach planted nearby. Chill hours – 300 to 400. A highly recommended cultivar for south Texas or USDA zone 9.

§        FlorDa Prince – Self-pollinating. One of the best peaches for south Texas or USDA zone 9. Chill hours – 150.

§        June Gold – Self–pollinating. Chill hours – 450 – 600.

§        Red Skin – Self-pollinating. Chill hours – 750.

§        Sam Houston – Self-pollinating, fruit production increases with another peach planted nearby. Chill hours – 500.

Pecans – All pecans require a pollinator of a different variety for better nut yield. Fertilize with a 12-10-10 three to four times a year.

Plums – Most plums require a pollinator. For pollinators use a different variety or plant another plum tree nearby. Plum trees require 400 to 500 chill hours. Recommended fertilizers for plum trees are a 10-10-10, or a 10-6-4 in the spring, summer, and fall.

§        Bruce Plum – requires a pollinator, Santa Rosa is a good pollinator. Chill hours – 500 hours.

§        Santa Rosa Plum – is self-pollinating, but fruit production increases with another plum tree planted nearby. Chill hours – 400 hours.

Pomegranate – All pomegranates are self-pollinating. Wonderful variety very productive. Apply a balanced fertilizer such as 8-8-8 in March and October.

 General Care Instructions: For Fruits, Nuts and Berries Plants please recommend the following ingredients.

§         Choose an area for planting that is sunny or will receive at least 6 hours of sun a day.

§       The planting area should be well-drained, except for Bananas.

§        The planting hole should have a 50/50 mix of 50 percent original soil from the planting hole to 50 percent soil amendments. The reason for a 50/50 mix is that when the planting hole does not contain some of the original soil mixed with the soil amendments the roots do not grow outside the original planting hole.

§        After planting water the original root ball of the plant and the planting hole, thoroughly. After watering apply a root stimulator to reduce planting stress, and apply once a week for the first month, thereafter, once a month for the first six months. 

§        Apply tree stakes, at least 3, to the tree for faster root establishment.

§        Apply mulch one to three inches deep, except on Citrus Trees, and apply pine straw instead.

§        Newly planted trees should be watered two to three times a week for the first month, after the first month water once a week until established.

§        Keep newly planted Fruit Trees, Nut Trees, and Berry plant should be free from grass at least two to five feet away from the original root ball.

       

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©Cheryl Ann Meola 2013.  Texas Certified Nursery Professional (TCNP) #1282.

Growing Orchids

Growing Orchids

Growing up in South Florida that is when the wonderful fascination of plants, which began and later became my exciting career as a horticulturist. As a horticulturist, you begin to notice the oddities in the plant world; you notice a plant growing roots without having the soil medium to grow in, just lying on the ground, growing roots, and flowers. Most people believe Orchids are hard to grow and afraid of even trying these beautiful beauties. Orchids are classified from easy to extremely difficult to grow even for professional Orchid growers. In this article, we will deal with some of the most common orchids to grow for future Orchid enthusiast a little confidence to take the wonderful journey of growing Orchids.

Denbrobium Orchid

Orchids are no different from other plant species in the plant kingdom because Orchids need the same  essential care as other plants: light, water, fertilizer, potting medium, and a special pot to grow in called an Orchid pot, which has aeration holes along the pot’s sides. Orchids also require an essential temperature and humidity range for success. A general rule of thumb is outside temperatures should not fall below 40° at night whether the Orchid is in a greenhouse or placed outside in the garden. If, the temperature does fall to around 40° to 50° make sure the greenhouse heat is around this temperature range. When cold weather comes to sub-tropical locations and your Orchids are growing on trees just water the Orchid and try, if you can, wrap the Orchid with a freeze blanket. During the winter months, you can increase the humidity around your potted Orchids in your home by adding a saucer under the Orchid pot filled with pebbles and water. The water should be level or even with the pebbles. This will increase the humidity around your Orchids during the winter months, during which the air is a little drier because of your home’s heating system.

As a horticulturist, I was fascinated by Orchids and wanted to learn more, so by going to Orchid shows and trying different ways to care for the Orchids I came up with this recipe to care for Orchids. Recommended Orchids for beginning Orchid enthusiast are Cattleya, Dendrobium, Oncidium, and Phalaenopsis Orchids.

Cattleya – Bright filtered light, 35 to 50 percent shade. Water - almost dry between waterings. Fertilize twice a month. Temperature 70° - 85° days and 55° - 65° nights. Humidity 40 to 70 percent.

Dendrobium Orchid

Dendrobium – Filtered light, brighter in the winter months, 25 to 50 percent shade. Water - keep moist, drier in the winter months. Fertilize twice a month. Temperature 70° - 90° days and 45° - 65° nights. Humidity 50 to 70 percent.

Oncidium - commonly known as “Dancing Ladies” – Bright filtered light, 35 to 65 percent shade. Allow to dry out between waterings. Fertilize twice a month. Temperature 70° - 85° days and 50° - 65° nights. Humidity 40 to 75 percent.

Phalaenopsis - commonly known as “Moth Orchid” – Moderate light, 70 to 80 percent shade, no direct sun. Water - keep evenly moist; avoid water on the leaves and the crown (center of the Orchid). Fertilize twice a month. Temperature 65° - 90° days and 55° - 70° nights. Humidity 50 to 75 percent.

Candy Stripe Phalaenopsis - Moth Orchid

Orchid Fertilizer – The American Orchid Society (AOS) recommends and endorses Better-Gro®Orchid Plus®Fertilizer and Better Gro®Orchid Bloom Booster® Fertilizer. AOS also recommends alternating Better-Gro®Orchid Plus®Fertilizer and Better Gro®Orchid Bloom Booster®Fertilizer. Being a horticulturist, I do not recommend any product until after trying the product myself and after using both Better-Gro®Orchid Fertilizers convinced me that their Orchid Fertilizers were the better choice than what I had previously used in the past. Better-Gro®Orchid Fertilizers have two different dilution rates depending on how frequently you water your Orchids just follow the directions on the package and you will have blooming and healthier Orchids in no time. For more information on the American Orchid Society click here.

Orchid Pots and Potting Medium – There are several Orchid pots and Potting medium available on the market today, and as a horticulturist, I will recommend the tried and true. An Orchid pot will usually have 4 to 5 vertical slits going around the pot or an intricate design of holes instead of the traditional vertical slits, in addition to the vertical slits or holes, there will be a center drainage hole. The purpose for the vertical slits and/or holes running down the sides of the Orchid pot are for aeration and drainage required by most Orchids. The most popular Orchid pots are the Terra cotta and the ceramic pots. Orchid potting medium usually comprises of different materials of chunky bark, charcoal, perlite, and lava rock. All these materials assist in the drainage and aeration that is imperative to healthy Orchid growth. 

You now have a simple recipe for Orchid success and most Orchids enjoy the same temperature and humidity that humans do. The Orchids mentioned in the article are not hard to grow and a wide selection should be available at your local garden center. Start now and enjoy a little bit of the tropics in your home.

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Photography and digital images are ©Cheryl Ann Meola Photography 2012. All Rights Reserved. All photographs and digital images displayed in this article are for viewing purposes only and cannot be duplicated. ©Cheryl Ann Meola 2012. Texas Certified Nursery Professional #1282.

March Gardening Calendar

March Gardening Calendar

Fertilize winter flowering annuals with a blooming type fertilizer. Water in all granular type fertilizers.

Tattered Liriope leaves can be cut either with a weed eater or your lawn mower set on its highest setting.

Lawns should have lime at least yearly. Have you limed your lawn lately? Use 40 pounds per 1000 square feet.

Start spring flowers and tomatoes from seeds indoors. It takes about 6 weeks to get strong seedlings.

Spring is a good time to prune your boxwood shrubs.

Peach and Apple trees need to be sprayed with a fungicide recommended for fruit trees, and spray the trees while the blossoms are on the tree.

Prune back Holly shrubs that have gotten too large. If needed, you can prune back to 18 inches.

Need to divide your Hostas? When the leaves start to show you can divide and plant elsewhere in a shady part of the garden. Use a solution of SuperThrive as a root stimulator for best results after planting.

Fertilize Pecan Trees with a fruit tree fertilizer and water in well after.

Check for scale insects on Camellias and Euonymus. Spray with a horticultural oil, if you detect the insects.

March is the last month recommended to prune Roses to half their original size. Fertilize with Bayer Advanced Rose Fertilizer after pruning and apply once a month. Click Here For More Information on Roses.

There is still time to plant winter veggies. Click Here For More Information. All vegetables can be grown in large containers. I prefer to grow my vegetables in containers. Click Here For Cedar Planters.

Fertilize shrubs with a shrub and tree fertilizer and water in well.

Flowering shrubs such as Winter Honeysuckle, Quince, and Forsythia can be pruned after flowering.

One of the best time to plant fruit and nut trees is in early spring. Nurseries have a good selection of these trees in spring, but hurry the selection usually goes fast.

©Cheryl Ann Meola Texas Certified Nursery Professional #1282

February Gardening Calendar 2023

February Gardening Calendar

Trees and Shrubs can be planted now. This is the best time to plant Nut Trees, Fruit Trees, and Shade Trees. Applying SuperThrive instead of a root stimulator to get your newly planted trees and shrubs established much faster. In the fall and winter months water trees and shrubs twice a week, then in spring and summer water three times a week for the first year.  

Prune Apple and Pear trees the first week in February, wait until mid-March for Peach trees. Remove stakes, trunk wraps, and guy wires from trees planted last fall. Prune back ¼ of the branches on Figs. Save the horizontal branches, these are the branches that produce fruit. Is your Burford Holly overgrown? Now is a good time to severely prune back. Burford Hollies can be prune back to 12 to 18 inches. Butterfly bushes can be pruned back by ½ the original height. You will be rewarded with bigger blooms this summer.

Perennials trim back all the brown, and if necessary, this month is a good time to divide all perennials. Gerber

Gerber Daisy

Daisy image right. ©Cheryl Ann Meola 2012.

Roses Prune back rose bushes to about 18 to 24 inches. The best time to prune is between February 12 – 20^th. For more information on roses and rose care.

Lawns apply a pre-emergent to your lawn to prevent dormant weed seeds from germinating during the growing season. Most pre-emergents last about 3 to 4 months.

Vegetables cool season veggies like lettuce, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, onions, asparagus, elephant garlic,

Lettuce

garlic, snow peas, and strawberries can still be planted. To get a head start on your spring garden start thinking about starting your spring vegetable garden from seeds now. Organically grown Lettuce image left. ©Cheryl Ann Meola 2012. Organically grown Tomatoes image right. ©Cheryl Ann Meola 2012.

Tomatoes

Ornamental Grasses can be pruned back to 12 inches. Liriope that is looking a little be draggled can be trimmed back, too. 

Houseplants water with a houseplant fertilizer 1/2 strength and turn your plants a ½ turn every week. Bamboo Palm image right. ©Cheryl Ann Meola 2012. 

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Photography and digital images are ©Cheryl Ann Meola 2012. All Rights Reserved. All photographs and digital images displayed in this article are for viewing purposes only and cannot be duplicated ©Cheryl Ann Meola 2012. Texas Certified Nursery Professional #1282.

©Cheryl Ann Meola 2012.

Texas Certified Nursery Professional #1282

Growing Herbs in Containers

Growing Herbs in Containers

As a horticulturist, we have favorite endeavors such as growing plants especially herbs in colorful containers of all colors and shapes. Herbs make an excellent choice to decorate a sunny patio, deck, or balcony, and the flowers that are produced on herbs will provide twice the amount of fun to your growing area. The seeds and flowers will provide additional ingredients to recipes. Processing the seeds produced by herbs make additional ingredients to add to recipes. For example, when Cilantro goes to seed the seeds are called Coriander when crushed; and when Dill goes to seed the processed seeds are called Dill Weed. Most flowers produced by herbs are edible and are used in salads, garnishes, and cooking or can be used in dried floral arrangements. For example, add Mexican Marigold Mint flowers to salads and Lavender flowers can be dried and used in floral arrangements. Plants that are classified as Herbs are very diverse and have multiple uses around the home. Here are a few tips to get you started with growing Herbs in containers.

Deciding a Location: Choose an area that gets 5 - 6 hours of full sun; and if, you have an area that receives more than 6 hours of sunlight that’s all right, too.

Deciding a Container(s): Choose a container that is 6 inches or larger, some of the perennials can be grown in larger containers are Lemon Grass and Sweet Bay.

Deciding a Soil: There are several potting soils on the market and choosing one is a matter of your gardening preferences. Some of the choices are inorganic verses organic, with moisture control or without moisture control, with timed-release fertilizer or without fertilizer. Some potting soils are especially formulated for herbs and vegetables, which would make an excellent choice to use.

Deciding a Fertilizer: There are several fertilizers on the market and choosing one is a matter of your gardening preferences. Some of the choices are water soluble, granular, time-release, slow-release, organic, or inorganic. Choose a fertilizer that is formulated for herbs or vegetable plants. Most gardeners agree in using a combination of time-release fertilizer and a weekly or bi-weekly feeding of a water-soluble fertilizer of your choice.

Choosing an Insecticide: When growing herbs in containers, you may want to consider an IPM (Integrated Pest Management) approach method to control insects on your herbs and using an IPM approach involves a two-step method approach, inspection of the herbs, and what type of control method you are going to use. The first part would be scouting, observing, and inspecting your prized Herbs for insects or chew marks on the leaves. Constantly scouting and observing daily for any insect or worm that would start eating your prize Herbs, and when one was seen, you can simply dispose of the insect. However, sometimes these critters multiply overnight and when this happens it is advisable to spray with a Safer Soap or a Horticultural oil. Using Safer Soaps or Horticultural Oils on all the Herbs mentioned is an organic and an IPM approach to growing Herbs.

Watering: Of all the ingredients that have been mentioned for Herb Container gardening success, water, is the most important to a successful Herb Container garden. The soil for your Herbs will need to be consistently moist at all times, but not soggy wet and the water source should be city water or treated water. This is one of the reasons of last’s years Salmonella outbreaks on produce; the Herbs that were recalled received Salmonella during either the growing process or the production process. Due to all the current recalls of produce, more gardeners are starting to grow their own Herbs this year versus last year due to the recent outbreaks in store-bought produce. Just another reason to start growing your own Herbs, you supply the water, you supply the insecticide, and you know exactly what ingredients went into your Herbs. For states that are currently under water restrictions, you can water your food crops, personal food garden, or personal Herb garden without penalty. Wash all Herbs before eating or cooking, whether Home Grown or Store Bought.

Put on your gardening gloves and reap the rewards and benefits of an Herb Container garden. You will have tastier Herbs than store bought that you harvest on your own. As an Herb Container gardener you know the ingredients, and there is nothing more rewarding than tasting the “Herbs” of your labors.

Listed below are just a few favorite Herbs that can be grown in Containers and have done extremely well. Note: spacing requirements are for growing Herbs in the ground instead of containers.

Arugula - Eruca sativa. Type: Annual. Height: 12 – 18 inches. Spacing: 6 – 12 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Uses: Excellent companion plant for salad mixes. Arugula prefers cool temperatures and can be grown from seeds or plants in early spring or fall. Can harvest 21 days after planting. To extend the growing season keep flower buds pinched back.

Basil - Ocimum basilicum. Type: Annual. Height: 18 – 30 inches. Spacing: 12 – 18 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Blooms pink flowers in summer. Additional Uses: Leaves can be used fresh or dried in tomato dishes, pasta dishes, vegetables, and soups. A companion plant that repels aphids, mites, and tomato hornworms. There are several different cultivars of Basil some favorites are Lemon and Cinnamon Basil. Basil image right. © Cheryl Ann Meola 2012.

Catmint - Nepeta mussinii. Type: Perennial. Height: 12 – 18 inches. Spacing: 12 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Profuse lavender blooms on spiky stems. Good for containers and the perennial garden. Soft, crinkled, gray-green leaves on a compact, mounding plant. Additional Uses: Butterfly nectar plant and your cats will love it. Catmint image left. © Cheryl Ann Meola 2012.

Catnip - Nepeta cataria. Type: Perennial. Height: 2 – 4 feet. Spacing: 12 – 18 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Vigorous, high-yielding plants. Cat-attracting perennial with gray-green leaves and white flowers. Additional uses: Butterfly nectar plant and your cats will love it.

Chives - Allium schoenoprasum. Type: Perennial. Height: 18 – 24 inches. Spacing: 4 – 8 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Chives have a mild onion flavor that is very pleasing and is easy to grow. Uses: Can be added to soups, salads, egg dishes, potatoes, fish dishes, or any dish that requires a mild onion flavor fresh or frozen. Additional Uses: Mosquito Repellent Plant or border/edger plant. Chives image left. © Cheryl Ann Meola.

Cilantro, Coriander - Coriandrum sativum. Type: Annual. Height: 12 – 18 inches. Spacing: 6 – 8 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Leaves are used in salsa, guacamole, sauces, and seafood. When Cilantro produces seeds the seed of Cilantro are called Coriander. Catnip image right © Cheryl Ann Meola 2012.

Citronella Grass - Cymbopogon nardus. ( (Cymbopogon flexuosus) (East Indian)). Type: Perennial, annual outside zone 9. Height: 5-6 feet. Spacing: 12 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Nectar plant for butterflies, Mosquito repellent plant, leaves are used in cooking, in potpourris, sachets, and the oil from the plant is used in citronella candles.

Cutting Celery, Leaf Celery, Celery Leaf – Apium graveolens var. secalinum. Type: biennial. Height: 10 – 12 inches. Spacing: 10 – 12 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Excellent plant to grow in containers. Cutting Celery is an excellent substitute for traditional celery, but without all the growing hassle. Very easy to grow and taste just like traditional celery, and cutting celery can be used in every recipe that calls for traditional celery.

Dill – Anethum graveolens. Type: Annual. Height: 18 – 36 inches. Space: 12 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Yellow blossoms in summer, seed heads can be harvested. The seeds can be crushed and used in cooking. The leaves can be used fresh in potato, tuna, and chicken salads; fresh chicken and fish dishes. Additional Uses: Attracts butterflies and a larval food plant for butterflies. (Plant enough for you and the butterflies!). Dill image right. © Cheryl Ann Meola 2012.

Epazote - Chenopodium ambrosioides . Type: Annual. Height: 3 – 4 feet. Spacing: 12 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Leaves are used in bean, soups, eggs or cheese dishes.

FrenchTarragon – Artemisia dracunculus ‘Sativa’. Type: Perennial. Height: 24 inches. Spacing: 8 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Leaves are used in eggs, poultry, salads, cheese, and fish.

Garlic Chives - Allium tuberosum. Type: Perennial. Height: 18 – 24 inches. Spacing: 6 – 8 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Garlic Chives have flat, thin leaves with a mild blend of garlic and onion. Uses: Can be added to soups, salads, egg dishes, potatoes, fish dishes, or any dish that requires a mild onion flavor fresh or frozen. Additional Uses: Mosquito Repellent Plant or border/edger plant. Garlic Chives image left. © Cheryl Ann Meola.

Greek Oregano - Origanum vulgare subsp. Hirtum. Type: Perennial. Height: 24 inches. Spacing: 12 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Leaves are used in Italian dishes, pizza, shellfish, egg dishes, beef, pork, and poultry dishes.

Italian Oregano – Origanum vulgare. Type: Perennial. Height: 24 inches. Spacing: 8 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Leaves are used in Italian dishes, pizza, shellfish, egg dishes, beef, pork, and poultry dishes.

Lavender - Lavandula angustifolia. Type: Perennial. Height: 18-24”. Spacing: 12-18” apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Nectar plant for butterflies, flowers can be dried, in potpourris, and sachets.

Lemon Grass - Cymbopogon citratus (West Indian). Type: Perennial. Height: 2-3 feet. Spacing: 12” apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Nectar plant for butterflies, Mosquito repellent plant, leaves are used in cooking, in potpourris, and sachets. Lemon Grass image right. © Cheryl Ann Meola 2012.

Lemon Thyme – Thymus x citriodorus. Type: Perennial. Height: 12 inches. Spacing: 12 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun. Light purple flowers in summer. Wonderful Lemon scent when leaves are crushed or walked upon. Additional Uses: All leaves have a distinct lemon flavor that can be used in cooking. Attracts Butterflies and Hummingbirds to the garden.

Lemon Verbena – Aloysia triphylla. Type: Perennial, treat as an annual outside zone 8. Height: To 4 feet. Spacing: 18-24” apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: The oil is used in perfumes; the leaves are used in flavoring teas and jellies.

Mexican Marigold Mint - Tagetes lucida. Type: Perennial. Height: 24-30”. Spacing: 12-18” apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Butterfly nectar and larval food plant, Mosquito repellent plant, fresh flowers are used in salads; leaves are used as a substitute for French tarragon. Mexican Marigold Mint image left. © Cheryl Ann Meola 2012.

Parsley - Petroselinum crispum. Type: Annual. Height: 12 – 18 inches. Spacing: 8 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Leaves are used in meat dishes, soups, and salads. Parsley image right. © Cheryl Ann Meola 2012.

Pennyroyal – Mentha pulegium. Type: Perennial. Height: 6 – 12 inches. Spacing: 12 – 24 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Purple flowers in late summer through fall. Additional Uses: A groundcover, nectar plant for butterflies, the leaves are used in the flavoring for fish dishes, and grows well in a hanging basket.

Peppermint - Mentha piperita. Type: Perennial. Height: 24-36”. Spacing: 12-18” apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Leaves are used fresh in hot and iced teas, butterfly nectar and larval food plant.

Pineapple Sage – Salvia elegans. Type: Perennial. Height: 3 - 4 feet. Spacing: 3 – 4 feet apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Blooms red flowers in spring, summer, and fall. The leaves when crushed smell and taste like fresh pineapple. Additional Uses: The fresh leaves can be used in drinks and salads. The leaves can be used in hot or cold drinks, and the flowers and leaves are used chopped in salads. Attracts butterflies and hummingbirds to the garden.

Prostrate Rosemary - Rosmarinus officinalis 'Prostratus’. Type: Perennial shrub or groundcover. Height: 12-18”. Spacing: 2 feet apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: The leaves are used in lamb and fish dishes, butterfly nectar plant, Mosquito repellent plant, and drought tolerant plant. Prostrate Rosemary image left. © Cheryl Ann Meola 2012.

Rosemary - Rosmarinus officinalis. Type: Perennial shrub. Height: 4 feet. Spacing: 3-5 feet apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: The leaves are used in lamb and fish dishes, drought tolerant plant, Mosquito repellent plant, and butterfly nectar plant. Rosemary image right. © Cheryl Ann Meola 2012.

Sage - Salvia officinalis. Type: Perennial. Height: 3 feet. Spacing: 12 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Leaves are used in stuffing and meat dishes.

Salad Burnet - Sanguisorba minor. Type: Perennial. Height: 12 inches. Spacing: 8 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Leaves have a mild cucumber taste and are used in salads, vinegars, and cold drinks.

Spearmint – Mentha spicata. Type: Perennial. Height: 24-36”. Spacing: 36-48 inches. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Additional Uses: Leaves are used fresh in hot and iced teas, Butterfly Nectar and Larval Food Plant.

Stevia - Stevia rebaudiana. Type: Hardy Perennial in USDA zones 9 and 10. Height: 18 – 24 inches. Spacing: 12 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Uses: Stevia is a natural sweetener that is used as a sugar substitute that is calorie free. Leaves can be used fresh or dried in beverages, sauces, and salads. Do not plant outdoors until temperatures are above 45 degrees. Avoid afternoon summer sun in extreme southern areas during July and August. During these months it’s recommended to put the container in afternoon shade. Check for leafhoppers and whiteflies which may be a problem.

Summer Thyme – Thymus vulgaris. Type: Perennial. Height: 6 – 12 inches. Spacing: 6 – 12 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Blooms lilac to purple flowers in summer. Additional Uses: All leaves are used in cooking. Attracts butterflies to the garden. All thyme plants can be used as an alternative ground cover.

Sweet Bay Laurel – Laurus nobilis. Type: Perennial. Height: 12 – 15 feet. Growth rate slow and plants growing in containers will be somewhat shorter. Spacing: 12 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Blooms pale yellow flowers in spring. Leaves are used in Italian and fish dishes. Companion plants are Prostrate rosemary, Lavender, and Oregano.

Sweet Marjoram - Origanum majorana. Type: Perennial. Height: 12 to 18 inches. Spacing: 9 inches apart. Light Requirements: Full sun to partial shade. Leaves are used in eggs, meats, rice, pastas, soups, vegetables.

Photography and digital images are ©Cheryl Ann Meola 2012. All Rights Reserved. All photographs and digital images displayed in this article are for viewing purposes only and cannot be duplicated ©Cheryl Ann Meola 2012. Texas Certified Nursery Professional #1282.