Planting and Growing Tomato Plants

Planting and Growing Tomato Plants

As the weather warms, we gardeners start thinking about gardening again. With this in mind I would like to mention the wonderful benefits of growing tomatoes.

Home-grown tomatoes have a richer, fuller, and better taste than store bought since you pick them yourself. Home-grown tomatoes are easy and inexpensive to grow as well. Growing tomatoes has a lot of appeal: it can involve the entire family from the little ones to the teens. As well as being an educational tool, the time the family spends in the garden is quality time spent together and can give one a sense of pride. For gardener’s who live in a condo, apartment, or townhome tomatoes can be grown in a container.

Choosing a Location: Choose an area that gets 5 - 6 hours of full sun; and if, you have an area that receives more than 6 hours of sunlight that’s all right, too.

Choosing a Container(s): Pick a container that is 14 inches or larger, and I would like to suggest when growing tomatoes to put one plant per container. 

Choosing Potting Soil: When choosing a potting soil there are several commercial potting soils available, and choosing one is a matter of your gardening preferences, some of the choices are inorganic verses organic, with moisture control or without moisture control, with timed-release fertilizer or without fertilizer. Some potting soils are especially formulated for vegetables and can be used as a potting soil in containers or a soil amendment to your vegetable garden plot.

Choosing a Fertilizer: When choosing a fertilizer there are several commercial fertilizers that are available, and choosing one is a matter of your gardening preferences, some of the choices are water soluble, granular, time-release, slow-release, organic, or inorganic. Choose a fertilizer that is formulated for vegetable plants and include the minor-element calcium. Current research has discovered that calcium is an important minor-element in fertilizers, especially for vegetable fertilizers. The research discovered that a lack of calcium in the soil is the cause of Blossom End Rot in tomatoes and other vegetables. When your vegetable fertilizer does not include the minor-element of calcium you can use one of the following: Crushed eggshells, Calcium Supplement Pills, (for people, but works just as well on plants), Nutri-Cal, Epsom Salts, Gypsum, or Powdered Lime.

The eggshells can be put into a blender or food processor to be crushed and mixed until the eggshells are a dry powder. Apply to plant(s) every two weeks. Eggshells contain 95 percent calcium carbonate.

The over-the-counter calcium supplement pills we take every day can be used to increase the calcium levels in your tomato plants. Use 2 tablets per plant mixed with a gallon of water. The tablets can be crushed or just dissolve thoroughly in water. The calcium water mixture can be added to your water soluble fertilizer.

Nutri-Cal is a liquid calcium supplement that can be purchased at most garden centers that is sprayed on the tomato plant. For good results please follow package directions.

Epsom salts has been recommended to relieve calcium deficiencies in soils and is highly recommended by organic gardeners. Apply 1 tablespoon, dry Epsom salts per plant and water in thoroughly after applying; or mix 2 tablespoons per gallon of water and water the tomatoes with the mixture.

To increase the calcium levels of soils that are more alkaline use Gypsum (calcium sulfate) and follow package directions. For soils that are more acidic use Powdered Lime (calcium carbonate). This product is also labeled as Calcitic Lime, Dolomitic Lime and will increase the soil’s alkalinity.

Choosing an Insecticide: When choosing an insecticide there are several available at your local garden center and choosing one is a matter of your gardening preferences, and while I was growing tomatoes, I had an IPM (Integrated Pest Management) approach method. I would only use Safer Soaps or Horticultural Oils on all the tomatoes that I grew, and realistically I hardly had to spray the tomatoes at all. I was constantly watching for any insect or worm that would start eating my prize tomatoes, and when I did see one, I would simply dispose of the insect.

Choosing a Vegetable Support: Most tomato plants will need to be staked or will need a vegetable cage to support the plant. Put the tomato cage or vegetable cage around the plant shortly after planting.

Watering: Of all the ingredients that I have mentioned for tomato gardening success, water, is the most important to successful tomatoes. The soil for your plants will need to be consistently moist at all times, and the water source should be city water or treated water. This is one of the reasons for E. coil outbreaks by vegetable growers in past years; the vegetables that were recalled received untreated water during the growing process. More gardeners are starting to grow their own vegetables this year versus last year due to the E. coli outbreaks in store-bought produce. Just another reason to start growing your own vegetables, you supply the water, you supply the insecticide, and you know exactly what ingredients went into your vegetables. For states that are currently under water restrictions, you can water your food crops, personal food garden, or personal vegetable garden without penalty. Wash all vegetables before eating or cooking.

Planting Tomato Plants: Always plant your tomato plants deeper than the original soil line, even if you grow your tomatoes from seed. When you are ready to plant your tomato plants remove two to three sets of the lower leaves or six leaves total and plant the tomato plant that deep in the soil. You just do this with tomatoes and the reason for this procedure is that tomatoes will establish more roots along the stem where you removed the leaves, and tomatoes require a lot more water than the other vegetables, and tomatoes are one vegetable that are heavy feeders, i.e. tomatoes require a steady supply of fertilizer.

An article in Chemically Speaking, January 2009 on honeybees and crop yield that was published may entice my readers to plant more than just a vegetable garden this spring. The article states that planting more flowers to attract honeybees will help plants defend themselves against attacks from caterpillars. The study suggests that this could lead to a new biological control method to try.

Put on your gardening gloves and reap the rewards and benefits of a spring vegetable garden. Tastier vegetables than store bought that you harvest on your own. As a vegetable gardener you know the ingredients, and there is nothing more rewarding than tasting the “vegetables” of your labors.

All photographs and digital images are ©Cheryl Ann Meola 2007. All Rights Reserved. All photographs and digital images displayed in this article are for viewing purposes only and cannot be duplicated.

Fruit Trees, Nut Trees, Berry Plants For The South

Fruits, Nuts, and Berries For The South

Most fruit trees require pollination and chilling temperatures from November to mid-February to break dormancy in the spring. Pollination is the process of pollen from one flower being transferred to another flower, required by certain plants and trees. The process of pollination can be by insects, animals, wind, or humans.  Most fruit trees need pollination for good fruit set, which occurs when a recommended fruit tree, (pollinator) is planted nearby. A plant or tree starts to go dormant when exposed to chilling temperatures. Chilling temperatures for a plant or tree are when night time temperatures drop to 45°F or below. Chill hours can be described as the number of hours the plant or tree receives temperatures at or below 45°F. Listed below are a few cultivars and pollinators for southern fruit trees, nuts trees, and berry plants. 

Apples – All apples require chilling hours and a pollinator depending on the variety. Recommended fertilizers for apple trees is a 10-10-10, or a 10-6-4 that is applied in the spring, summer, and fall. Keep the planted area free from grass 2-5-feet away from the trunk. Listed below are a few cultivars and pollinators for apple trees. 

§        Anna - requires a pollinator with another cultivar. Dorsett Golden is a good pollinator for the Anna cultivar. Chilling Hours: 200 – 300.

§        Dorsett Golden - requires a pollinator with another cultivar. The Anna cultivar is a good pollinator for Dorsett Golden. Chilling Hours: 250.

§        Ein Shemer – self-pollinating and very productive, but fruit production increases with another apple tree planted nearby. One can use Anna or Dorsett as a pollinator. Chilling Hours: 200.

§        Fuji – requires a pollinator and tolerates summer heat. Golden Delicious is good for pollination. Chilling Hours: 400 – 600 hours.

§        Gala – requires a pollinator and tolerates summer heat. Golden Delicious can be used a pollinator. Chilling Hours: 600.

§        Golden Delicious or Yellow Delicious – benefits from a pollinator, Red Delicious. Chilling Hours: 600 – 700.

§        Granny Smith – self-pollinating and heat resistant. Chilling Hours – 500 – 600.

§        Red Delicious – benefits from a pollinator, Golden Delicious. Chilling Hours: 900.

Avocado – Avocados are self-pollinating, but fruit production increases with another Avocado tree planted nearby. Avocado trees should be planted in a well-drained area. Keep the planted area free from grass 2 – 5 feet away from the trunk. Fertilize newly planted trees every 2 months for the first year starting when new growth appears after planting. The second year after planting fertilize 3 to 4 times a year ending in October. Use a fertilizer recommended for Citrus, Avocado, and Mango or a 10-6-4 or a 6-4-4. The Haas cultivar is cold hardy and the fruit is an excellent choice for salads and guacamole. The fruit matures on the tree.

Bananas – are heavy feeders and require sufficient amounts of water. Keep the planted area free from grass 2 – 5 feet away from the trunk. Fertilize every month with a fertilizer recommended for Citrus, Avocado, and Mango, or a 10-6-4, or a 6-4-4. Bananas are clumping by nature and keep at least 5 to 6 mature banana stalks. Any new growth or suckers should be removed by cutting down to the soil line. When a banana blooms, it is the flower that forms the fruit. Once the banana produces a flower and fruits that stalk will die. When harvesting bananas, cut the banana bunch off the tree, and then cut the entire banana stalk to the ground. Then, let a new sucker replace the one that was just cut down. One can tell when the bananas are ready to be harvested when the fruits start to turn yellow in color. If, the bananas start to split before harvesting has occurred increase the water times or the amount of water received by the plant. 

Blackberry – All blackberries are self-pollinating, will tolerate poor soil, and will produce fruit after the second year of planting. Apply 10-10-10 or 16-16-8 fertilizer blend in early spring and after fruit production is done. The canes produce only once and should be removed and cut down to the ground after harvesting the fruit.

Blueberry – All blueberries are self-pollinating, but will produce more blueberries if pollinated by another variety. Blueberries need an acid soil and one can use Miracle-Gro’s Selection of soil mixes (MG).  MG Azalea Soil, or MG Rose Soil or the Humus and Cow Manure Mix. Also, add mulch or pine straw to help with the acidity of the soil. Apply a slow-release Azalea type fertilizer in early spring and summer. The cultivars Tifblue, Climax, Misty, and Legacy are recommended for the south and make excellent choices for the home gardener.

Citrus – All citrus are self-pollinating and requires well-drained soil. Fertilize with a citrus fertilizer such as 12-10-10 and the fertilizer selected should have micro nutrients included. Start fertilizing new planted trees when new growth starts. For older citrus trees, fertilized 4 times a year, but no later than October for the last application. Keep the planted area free from grass 2 – 5 feet away from the trunk and do not use mulch because the mulch will cause fungus problems, but use pine straw instead. Fruit ripens on the tree.

Fig – All figs are self-pollinating. Easy to low maintenance and produce heavy amounts of fruit. Fertilize with an 8-8-8 or a 10-10-10.

Grapes – All grapes are self-pollinating. Fertilize in the spring and early summer the first two years after planting with a 10-10-10 or a 12-12-12. Grapes are not heavy feeders.

Mango – All mangos are self-pollinating and are very sensitive to temperatures that drop below 40° F for extended periods of time. When temperatures drop below 40° F there will be damaged to the flower and temperatures that drop to 30° F or below will damage the trunk of young trees. Wrap the tree with a blanket or frost cloth to prevent trunk damage.  Mango trees should be planted in an area that has good drainage. For newly planted trees fertilize every month with a citrus fertilizer plus minors, or 6-6-6, or 8-8-8, or 10-10-10 plus minors ending in October. Thereafter, fertilize 3 to 4 times a year. The fruit matures in 3 to 6 months and ripens on the tree. 

Peaches – All peaches are self-pollinating, but benefit from another variety to be more productive. Recommended fertilizer for peaches is a balanced fertilizer such as 8-8-8, or 10-10-10, or 13-13-13.

§        FlorDa King - Self-pollinating, fruit production increases with another peach planted nearby. Chill hours – 300 to 400. A highly recommended cultivar for south Texas or USDA zone 9.

§        FlorDa Prince – Self-pollinating. One of the best peaches for south Texas or USDA zone 9. Chill hours – 150.

§        June Gold – Self–pollinating. Chill hours – 450 – 600.

§        Red Skin – Self-pollinating. Chill hours – 750.

§        Sam Houston – Self-pollinating, fruit production increases with another peach planted nearby. Chill hours – 500.

Pecans – All pecans require a pollinator of a different variety for better nut yield. Fertilize with a 12-10-10 three to four times a year.

Plums – Most plums require a pollinator. For pollinators use a different variety or plant another plum tree nearby. Plum trees require 400 to 500 chill hours. Recommended fertilizers for plum trees are a 10-10-10, or a 10-6-4 in the spring, summer, and fall.

§        Bruce Plum – requires a pollinator, Santa Rosa is a good pollinator. Chill hours – 500 hours.

§        Santa Rosa Plum – is self-pollinating, but fruit production increases with another plum tree planted nearby. Chill hours – 400 hours.

Pomegranate – All pomegranates are self-pollinating. Wonderful variety very productive. Apply a balanced fertilizer such as 8-8-8 in March and October.

 General Care Instructions: For Fruits, Nuts and Berries Plants please recommend the following ingredients.

§         Choose an area for planting that is sunny or will receive at least 6 hours of sun a day.

§       The planting area should be well-drained, except for Bananas.

§        The planting hole should have a 50/50 mix of 50 percent original soil from the planting hole to 50 percent soil amendments. The reason for a 50/50 mix is that when the planting hole does not contain some of the original soil mixed with the soil amendments the roots do not grow outside the original planting hole.

§        After planting water the original root ball of the plant and the planting hole, thoroughly. After watering apply a root stimulator to reduce planting stress, and apply once a week for the first month, thereafter, once a month for the first six months. 

§        Apply tree stakes, at least 3, to the tree for faster root establishment.

§        Apply mulch one to three inches deep, except on Citrus Trees, and apply pine straw instead.

§        Newly planted trees should be watered two to three times a week for the first month, after the first month water once a week until established.

§        Keep newly planted Fruit Trees, Nut Trees, and Berry plant should be free from grass at least two to five feet away from the original root ball.

       

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©Cheryl Ann Meola 2013.  Texas Certified Nursery Professional (TCNP) #1282.

September Gardening Calendar 2012

September Gardening Calendar

Check flowerbeds for pooped-out perennials such as Purple Coneflower, Black-Eyed Susan, and Shasta Daisy. Trim dead flower heads and brown leaves for fall.

Fertilize Chrysanthemums and Salvia with a liquid plant food. You will be rewarded with blooms later in the fall.

Chrysanthemums, Pansy, Viola, and Snapdragons provide winter color through the spring and should be available by mid-September at garden centers. For a complete list of Fall Color Annuals. Click Here For More Information. For spring blooms plant Bluebonnet and Poppy seeds.

Now is the time to divide Monkey Grass, Iris, and Daylily while the weather is still warm. 

Are you planning to bring your Tropical Hibiscus in this winter? Place in a sunny window.

Preserve excess Basil leaves by pureeing in a blender with ¼ cup of water. Pour the mixture in ice trays and use the cubes in your wintertime Italian dishes.

Spring-flowering bulbs should be on sale. Plan to plant in mid-October or when the weather cools to the 60’s or below.

Start planning where you will place your Tropical Plants that spent the summer outdoors. Trim back, if necessary and inspect for insects. Spray with appropriate insecticide, if needed. I prefer to use horticulture oil on my houseplants. Horticulture oils are environmentally friendly and will give your Houseplants a nice shine along with killing any insects. Check out our selection of Tropical Plants.

Are you planning a fall vegetable garden? Cool weather vegetable starts such as Broccoli, Collards, Cabbage, Tomatoes, Peppers, and Snow Peas are good choices. Don’t have room to plant your fall vegetable garden, but would like to grow your own vegetables? Our handcrafted cedar planters are the answer and are an excellent choice to grow your own vegetables. Cedar Planters are 10% off. Click To Order. For more information onFall Vegetable Gardening Click Here.

The last week in September is the time to replace your mulch under your Roses and Red Tip Photinia to prevent diseases on next year’s leaves.

As the weather cools, this is a good time to plant shrubs and trees. When planting in the fall, it provides less stress on the plant and the roots start to get established in the ground. SuperThrive is the recommended concentrated solution of plant vitamins and hormones used to encourage plant and root growth and to revitalize stressed or dying plants. SuperThrive is not a fertilizer and can be mixed with your favorite liquid fertilizer. Dosage recommendation for transplanting or weekly use: ¼ of a teaspoon per gallon of water, or for larger projects 3 ounces to 100 gallons of water. To revitalize stressed or dying plants use: 1 ounce to five gallons of water and water the root zone or drip line. Then water every 3 – 5 days ¼ teaspoon to 1 gallon of water at the root zone or drip line. For bare root roses use: 1 ½ teaspoons per 5 gallons of water and soak for at least 30 minutes. Depending on your plant’s condition you may use weekly or monthly. 

During drought or stressful conditions it is wise to water established shrubs and trees. The recommended rate for trees is 15 gallons of water per each trunk diameter a week. Break up the amount of water to twice a week and use SuperThrive as recommended above.

Bermuda grass seed should be planted no later than September 15^th to insure that the seeds germinate and become established before winter frost.

Brown Patch fungus is more apparent in the fall months. Prevention is the best cure by watering your lawn early in the morning before 10:00 AM or after 4:00 PM.

Mid-September is the last feeding for your lawns. Use a winterizer fertilizer for best results.

Don’t forget to check our website Hibiscus and More.

Hibiscus And More now offers Halloween Decorations. Click Here to View. Please allow 7 to 10 days for delivery.

Cheryl Ann Meola

Certified Texas Nursery Professional #1282

Growing Orchids

Growing Orchids

Growing up in South Florida that is when the wonderful fascination of plants, which began and later became my exciting career as a horticulturist. As a horticulturist, you begin to notice the oddities in the plant world; you notice a plant growing roots without having the soil medium to grow in, just lying on the ground, growing roots, and flowers. Most people believe Orchids are hard to grow and afraid of even trying these beautiful beauties. Orchids are classified from easy to extremely difficult to grow even for professional Orchid growers. In this article, we will deal with some of the most common orchids to grow for future Orchid enthusiast a little confidence to take the wonderful journey of growing Orchids.

Denbrobium Orchid

Orchids are no different from other plant species in the plant kingdom because Orchids need the same  essential care as other plants: light, water, fertilizer, potting medium, and a special pot to grow in called an Orchid pot, which has aeration holes along the pot’s sides. Orchids also require an essential temperature and humidity range for success. A general rule of thumb is outside temperatures should not fall below 40° at night whether the Orchid is in a greenhouse or placed outside in the garden. If, the temperature does fall to around 40° to 50° make sure the greenhouse heat is around this temperature range. When cold weather comes to sub-tropical locations and your Orchids are growing on trees just water the Orchid and try, if you can, wrap the Orchid with a freeze blanket. During the winter months, you can increase the humidity around your potted Orchids in your home by adding a saucer under the Orchid pot filled with pebbles and water. The water should be level or even with the pebbles. This will increase the humidity around your Orchids during the winter months, during which the air is a little drier because of your home’s heating system.

As a horticulturist, I was fascinated by Orchids and wanted to learn more, so by going to Orchid shows and trying different ways to care for the Orchids I came up with this recipe to care for Orchids. Recommended Orchids for beginning Orchid enthusiast are Cattleya, Dendrobium, Oncidium, and Phalaenopsis Orchids.

Cattleya – Bright filtered light, 35 to 50 percent shade. Water - almost dry between waterings. Fertilize twice a month. Temperature 70° - 85° days and 55° - 65° nights. Humidity 40 to 70 percent.

Dendrobium Orchid

Dendrobium – Filtered light, brighter in the winter months, 25 to 50 percent shade. Water - keep moist, drier in the winter months. Fertilize twice a month. Temperature 70° - 90° days and 45° - 65° nights. Humidity 50 to 70 percent.

Oncidium - commonly known as “Dancing Ladies” – Bright filtered light, 35 to 65 percent shade. Allow to dry out between waterings. Fertilize twice a month. Temperature 70° - 85° days and 50° - 65° nights. Humidity 40 to 75 percent.

Phalaenopsis - commonly known as “Moth Orchid” – Moderate light, 70 to 80 percent shade, no direct sun. Water - keep evenly moist; avoid water on the leaves and the crown (center of the Orchid). Fertilize twice a month. Temperature 65° - 90° days and 55° - 70° nights. Humidity 50 to 75 percent.

Candy Stripe Phalaenopsis - Moth Orchid

Orchid Fertilizer – The American Orchid Society (AOS) recommends and endorses Better-Gro®Orchid Plus®Fertilizer and Better Gro®Orchid Bloom Booster® Fertilizer. AOS also recommends alternating Better-Gro®Orchid Plus®Fertilizer and Better Gro®Orchid Bloom Booster®Fertilizer. Being a horticulturist, I do not recommend any product until after trying the product myself and after using both Better-Gro®Orchid Fertilizers convinced me that their Orchid Fertilizers were the better choice than what I had previously used in the past. Better-Gro®Orchid Fertilizers have two different dilution rates depending on how frequently you water your Orchids just follow the directions on the package and you will have blooming and healthier Orchids in no time. For more information on the American Orchid Society click here.

Orchid Pots and Potting Medium – There are several Orchid pots and Potting medium available on the market today, and as a horticulturist, I will recommend the tried and true. An Orchid pot will usually have 4 to 5 vertical slits going around the pot or an intricate design of holes instead of the traditional vertical slits, in addition to the vertical slits or holes, there will be a center drainage hole. The purpose for the vertical slits and/or holes running down the sides of the Orchid pot are for aeration and drainage required by most Orchids. The most popular Orchid pots are the Terra cotta and the ceramic pots. Orchid potting medium usually comprises of different materials of chunky bark, charcoal, perlite, and lava rock. All these materials assist in the drainage and aeration that is imperative to healthy Orchid growth. 

You now have a simple recipe for Orchid success and most Orchids enjoy the same temperature and humidity that humans do. The Orchids mentioned in the article are not hard to grow and a wide selection should be available at your local garden center. Start now and enjoy a little bit of the tropics in your home.

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Photography and digital images are ©Cheryl Ann Meola Photography 2012. All Rights Reserved. All photographs and digital images displayed in this article are for viewing purposes only and cannot be duplicated. ©Cheryl Ann Meola 2012. Texas Certified Nursery Professional #1282.